As you may know, specialization of today's inflatable boats is now in the of the minds of the designers. Each distinct group is specifically designed for a different set of applications and is built and equipped with different components and equipment. Most inflatable boats today fall within one these specific categories.
If all you need is a small boat to get you from ship to shore, then a typical inflatable tender is the best answer. If you're after a medium sized boat for diving or watersports there are many choices. If a large rigid-hulled inflatable (Rigid Inflatable Boat or RIB) for recreation, rescue or work is what you need, there are again many designs available with a wide variety of standard and optional components. The choice is quite wide through the entire spectrum, ranging from very compact models with simple slatted or inflatable floors, to larger tenders with inflatable or wooden keels and solid wooden or aluminum floors, up to the fiberglass or aluminum rigid-hulled inflatables. To avoid confusion, before buying, or even shopping for an inflatable, discuss and decide on exactly what the uses or requirements will be for your new inflatable boat. This will minimize the models to choose from, which in turn will minimize confusion.
Dealer Location and Reputation
The location of the dealer is important because you don't want to have to travel too far for you inflatable boat needs. Whether it's parts, repairs or just technical support and friendly customer service tips, a close dealer can be a close friend. In particular, as a new boat owner and perhaps new to inflatable boats, you may have questions, need to claim warranty, or need regular servicing to maintain a warranty. Any way you look at it, closer is better.
Pricing
Years ago, inflatable boats where the most expensive boats on the market and only a few people could afford them. This was due to the use of exotic materials and the hours of meticulous hand labor which went into their construction. Now, the boats still use the best materials, but in the late seventies, the companies started investing millions of dollars in computer-driven assembly equipment. This enabled prices to be dramatically reduced as economies of scale rose, enabling more and more consumers to enjoy affordable inflatable boating. Zodiac and its sister company, Sevylor, are now the leading low-cost producer thanks to these technological investments. So be wary of inflatable prices substantially below the Zodiac/Sevylor line. They may be either produced in developing countries by unskilled labor, or marketed by companies who are unaware of the importance of profit margins. They will be glad to see your dollar today but may be unwilling or unable to fix a problem later, or supply that much needed spare part.
Warranties
You may be enamored with competitor's claims, all of whom will promise they have the best or longest warranty. There was even a lifetime warranty offered some years ago by an inflatable boat company that soon enough disappeared. A lot of manufacturers use attractive warranties as a substitute for quality or proper boat design, or simply to shore up a lack of product features. You should also be sure in your own mind that the company will be around long enough to deliver.
Showing posts with label SMALL BOATS. Show all posts
Showing posts with label SMALL BOATS. Show all posts
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Friday, July 3, 2009
Small Boats and Diesel Engines
The question of whether gas or diesel is a better power choice, some other factors that come into play such as hull efficiency and windage in superstructures.
Diesel becomes the better choice in direct proportion to the amount of weight being propelled. Horse power and torque are two different measures of power. Torque is a measure of the kinetic energy that builds up in a rotating engine. The higher the torque, the more power it takes to slow the engine down and it takes more power to make it work harder or, the engine will carry a heavier load with less strain. Diesel engines develop more torque for several reasons. One is because of their greater mass. But they also have compression ratios three times that of a gas engine, which also develops more torque. Gas engines develop most of their horse power at the top end of their RPM curve, diesels develop more power lower on the speed curve because of their greater torque, which can be thought of as the reserve power behind the rotating shaft.
Diesel's great advantage is carrying more load with less strain on the engine due to higher torque generated. Small, lightweight diesels, such as those made for small trucks, have a much lower advantage simply because the torque is lower. When dealing with lighter loads, that advantage disappears. There is also an issue of kinetic energy, which is energy that builds up in rotating parts such as flywheels, which helps sustain the load. Another advantage is that the diesel will develop that power with less fuel. But that advantage is nullified by the much higher initial cost of the machine itself. The only real advantage is in the amount of fuel tank space savings since you can have smaller tanks with a diesel. Otherwise, few boaters run enough fuel through diesel engines for fuel savings to make up for the high cost.
By the time a boat reaches 16, 000 lbs. or around 36 feet, it is approaching the limit where a gas engine can power it efficiently. Not only is there the issue of weight, but the water resistance on a larger hull. Gas engines begin to build up too much internal heat and the strain begins to result in lower service life in larger boats.
Internal displacement is the best measure of an engine's ability to deliver power efficiently. The rule for service life is that the more power is squeezed from an engine block, the shorter it's life span. A ratio of 1:2 is about ideal for a marine engine, but at 80% to 90% at least yield reasonable service life. At 1:1 and above it should be considered a high performance engine with a very short service life indeed.
Speed / Weight: Other factors come into play, engine speed and weight. There is no escape from the fact that fast turning diesels have shorter life spans. Slow speed diesels can be longer lived precisely because they do turn much slower.
A pair of medium weight diesels can easily weigh 2,000 lbs. more than a pair of gas engines. In a 30' boat, an extra ton is going to result in a considerable speed loss because of that extra weight. In terms of speed, this gives a considerable edge to the gas engine. While everyone knows that gas power is faster, few people consider this point. The light weight diesel at least gains the advantage over the heavier counterpart in terms of speed potential, but looses out in the long run on longevity.
Diesel Advantage: If one is willing to travel at slower speeds, the one great advantage that diesel holds over its gas counterpart is lower fuel consumption, lower fuel cost and greater range. If fuel range is a consideration, then diesel wins hands down. Of course this is entirely dependent on how fast you want to travel, if you want to run at the same speeds as gas power is capable of, then even that advantage fades.
Yet many people make the mistake of thinking that because fuel costs are less, the overall operating cost is less. This is simply not true when you figure how much lower cost diesel fuel you have to burn to make up for the added cost of the engines themselves. The average boater running his boat at 150 hrs a year. will never see any advantage from lower fuel costs or consumption.
The argument for gas engines is that they're cheap, efficient, and far less costly to maintain. And they are certainly just as reliable as diesels, all things considered.
If you still want diesels in that 28 or 32 footer, just remember that you're paying a very substantial premium for them without much in the way of benefits.
And since we're talking about small boats, if maintenance costs are a concern to you, think twice about buying a boat with large engines crammed into small spaces. If its going to cause you pain to write a check for $1500 or $2000 for what should seem to be normal maintenance work, you had better consider whether a repairman has to dismantle part of the boat in order to change a water pump.
There's always a trade off for the boat that seemingly has everything, because the extra space was obtained at the expense of engine room or compartment space. When the engines are put in with a shoe horn, rest assured that every aspect of maintenance is going to cost you more, and sometimes a lot more. This is particularly true when considering a used boat. If the front and outboard sides of the engines can't be seen, yet alone reached, problems develop that aren't observed, and therefore not maintained or repaired. There's not much chance of discovering a serious problem and correcting it before serious damage is done. When surveyed, boats with tight engine compartments almost invariably are found to have more engine problems than boats with engines that can be reached on all sides. Its a small thing that usually adds up to big dollars. Small boats with big diesels are usually the worst offenders.
New EPA rules are going to have a major impact on diesel engines. The mandate to make them lighter, more fuel efficient and cleaner is going to translate into engines that are vastly less reliable. Why? Because they're going to start cutting out all that necessary extra cast iron, and in many areas start replacing it with cast aluminum. The marine engine industry tried cast aluminum once before back in the late 60's, it didn't work then and won't work now, never mind all the smoke they'll put out about "technological advances
Diesel becomes the better choice in direct proportion to the amount of weight being propelled. Horse power and torque are two different measures of power. Torque is a measure of the kinetic energy that builds up in a rotating engine. The higher the torque, the more power it takes to slow the engine down and it takes more power to make it work harder or, the engine will carry a heavier load with less strain. Diesel engines develop more torque for several reasons. One is because of their greater mass. But they also have compression ratios three times that of a gas engine, which also develops more torque. Gas engines develop most of their horse power at the top end of their RPM curve, diesels develop more power lower on the speed curve because of their greater torque, which can be thought of as the reserve power behind the rotating shaft.
Diesel's great advantage is carrying more load with less strain on the engine due to higher torque generated. Small, lightweight diesels, such as those made for small trucks, have a much lower advantage simply because the torque is lower. When dealing with lighter loads, that advantage disappears. There is also an issue of kinetic energy, which is energy that builds up in rotating parts such as flywheels, which helps sustain the load. Another advantage is that the diesel will develop that power with less fuel. But that advantage is nullified by the much higher initial cost of the machine itself. The only real advantage is in the amount of fuel tank space savings since you can have smaller tanks with a diesel. Otherwise, few boaters run enough fuel through diesel engines for fuel savings to make up for the high cost.
By the time a boat reaches 16, 000 lbs. or around 36 feet, it is approaching the limit where a gas engine can power it efficiently. Not only is there the issue of weight, but the water resistance on a larger hull. Gas engines begin to build up too much internal heat and the strain begins to result in lower service life in larger boats.
Internal displacement is the best measure of an engine's ability to deliver power efficiently. The rule for service life is that the more power is squeezed from an engine block, the shorter it's life span. A ratio of 1:2 is about ideal for a marine engine, but at 80% to 90% at least yield reasonable service life. At 1:1 and above it should be considered a high performance engine with a very short service life indeed.
Speed / Weight: Other factors come into play, engine speed and weight. There is no escape from the fact that fast turning diesels have shorter life spans. Slow speed diesels can be longer lived precisely because they do turn much slower.
A pair of medium weight diesels can easily weigh 2,000 lbs. more than a pair of gas engines. In a 30' boat, an extra ton is going to result in a considerable speed loss because of that extra weight. In terms of speed, this gives a considerable edge to the gas engine. While everyone knows that gas power is faster, few people consider this point. The light weight diesel at least gains the advantage over the heavier counterpart in terms of speed potential, but looses out in the long run on longevity.
Diesel Advantage: If one is willing to travel at slower speeds, the one great advantage that diesel holds over its gas counterpart is lower fuel consumption, lower fuel cost and greater range. If fuel range is a consideration, then diesel wins hands down. Of course this is entirely dependent on how fast you want to travel, if you want to run at the same speeds as gas power is capable of, then even that advantage fades.
Yet many people make the mistake of thinking that because fuel costs are less, the overall operating cost is less. This is simply not true when you figure how much lower cost diesel fuel you have to burn to make up for the added cost of the engines themselves. The average boater running his boat at 150 hrs a year. will never see any advantage from lower fuel costs or consumption.
The argument for gas engines is that they're cheap, efficient, and far less costly to maintain. And they are certainly just as reliable as diesels, all things considered.
If you still want diesels in that 28 or 32 footer, just remember that you're paying a very substantial premium for them without much in the way of benefits.
And since we're talking about small boats, if maintenance costs are a concern to you, think twice about buying a boat with large engines crammed into small spaces. If its going to cause you pain to write a check for $1500 or $2000 for what should seem to be normal maintenance work, you had better consider whether a repairman has to dismantle part of the boat in order to change a water pump.
There's always a trade off for the boat that seemingly has everything, because the extra space was obtained at the expense of engine room or compartment space. When the engines are put in with a shoe horn, rest assured that every aspect of maintenance is going to cost you more, and sometimes a lot more. This is particularly true when considering a used boat. If the front and outboard sides of the engines can't be seen, yet alone reached, problems develop that aren't observed, and therefore not maintained or repaired. There's not much chance of discovering a serious problem and correcting it before serious damage is done. When surveyed, boats with tight engine compartments almost invariably are found to have more engine problems than boats with engines that can be reached on all sides. Its a small thing that usually adds up to big dollars. Small boats with big diesels are usually the worst offenders.
New EPA rules are going to have a major impact on diesel engines. The mandate to make them lighter, more fuel efficient and cleaner is going to translate into engines that are vastly less reliable. Why? Because they're going to start cutting out all that necessary extra cast iron, and in many areas start replacing it with cast aluminum. The marine engine industry tried cast aluminum once before back in the late 60's, it didn't work then and won't work now, never mind all the smoke they'll put out about "technological advances
Friday, June 19, 2009
Boating Accidents and What to Do
When you go boating, you will encounter hazards and risks. The outcome of these encounters will be determined by your knowledge, skill, and attitude toward safety. It's important to make a boating emergency less likely to happen by taking the proper precautions, but, it's equally important to be prepared and know what to do if an emergency occurs.
Risk Management
Because most accidents are the result of a simple mistake, nearly all accidents are easily preventable. The best way to avoid having a serious accident is to take a few simple steps toward accident prevention. The water can be an unfriendly environment if you don't recognize risks and are not properly prepared for them. Risk management is the process of recognizing and acting upon accident warning signs or minimizing the effects of an accident if it does occur. If you know the "rules of the road" and how important they are to you and other boats and potential hazards and to maintain a safe speed. By practicing these rules, you greatly reduce the chance that you'll be involved in an accident.
Get in the habit of wearing your life jacket also reduces the chance that you will drown should you find yourself in the water unexpectedly. Below is additional information to help you understand and minimize the risks associated with boating and make your time on the water safe .
Increased Risk Due To Boating Stressors
The glare and heat of the sun, along with the motion of the vessel caused by the wind and the waves and the noise and vibration of the engine, have a large impact on your body that you may not even realize. These natural stressors make you tire more rapidly when on the water regardless of your age or level of fitness. Many boaters greatly underestimate the effect these stressors have on fatigue. While perhaps not fatal themselves, stressors may weaken your body and mind enough to make the risk of an accident much greater.
Increased Risk Due to Dehydration
A typical boating day in the summer causes your body to generate a large amount of heat. Sitting exposed in the sun increases your body heat. As you ride in a boat, your body automatically adjusts to the changing position of the boat. The exertion of this constant adjustment increases body heat.
The way the body rids itself of increased heat is by sweating. Increased sweating will cause dehydration if fluids are not replaced. Dehydration will make you more fatigued and more at risk for a boating accident.
The best way to minimize the risk of dehydration is to drink plenty of water before, during, and after any water activities. A good rule of thumb while you are boating in warm weather is to drink some water every 15-20 minutes.
Besides thirst, other signs of dehydration are a dry mouth, sleepiness, irritability, weakness, dizziness, and a headache. The first thing you should do if you experience any of these symptoms is to drink plenty of water. If possible, get out of the sun and rest. Serious dehydration may require medical attention. Most accidents are preventable. Even accidents attributed to the environment most likely could have been prevented if the operator had not overlooked the warning signals, had not made poor decisions, or had the proper boating skills. Many accidents attributed to equipment also could have been prevented if proper maintenance and defect detection had taken place.
A Typical U.S. Boating Fatality
Someone not wearing a PFD falls overboard and drowns or
A vessel capsizes and someone drowns or
A vessel strikes another vessel or fixed object, and the occupants are fatally injured or drown due to injuries.
Collisions can occur because boat operators are not staying alert and keeping a lookout for other boats or objects, or are going a little faster than they should. Although some collisions happen at night when it is difficult to see, many occur in daylight hours on calm, clear days. About one-third of the time, alcohol is involved.
You also might be surprised to learn that:
Typically, victims drown even though there are enough life jackets on the boat. (Remember, you probably won't have time to put on your life jacket during an emergency. Get in the habit of wearing it.) The vessel is most often a small boat of open design, such as a jon boat, canoe, or other type of boat with low sides. The victims are usually men 26 to 50 years old, who have been boating for years and likely know how to swim.
Remember, it only takes one mistake to ruin your day of boating. Pay attention, slow down a little, and wear a life jacket.
Minimize Risk of Boating Accidents, Avoid Alcohol
The effect of alcohol is increased by the natural stressors placed on your body while boating. Also, alcohol causes dehydration of your body. It takes less alcohol, combined with stressors, to impair an operator's ability to operate safely. Research has proven that one-third of the amount of alcohol that it takes to make a person legally intoxicated on land can make a boater equally intoxicated on the water.
Alcohol depresses the central nervous system, affects judgment, and slows physical reaction time. Most people become impaired after only one drink. Alcohol makes it difficult for you to pay attention and perform multiple tasks. For example, it will be more difficult for you to keep track of two or more vessels operating in your area. This could become critical if you are placed in an emergency situation and must make a sudden decision.
Alcohol can reduce your ability to distinguish colors, especially red and green. Alcohol impairment increases the likelihood of accidents—for both passengers and vessel operators. Always designate non-drinking boaters to operate the vessel and to act as an observer if your group plans to consume alcohol. Do not allow your skipper to operate if he or she is drinking. Alcohol is a major contributor to boating accidents and fatalities. Drinking while boating is a choice. The best way to minimize the risk of an accident is to make the wise choice—Don't drink and boat!
Minimize Risk of Drownings, Wear PFDs (Life Jackets)
Approximately 70% of all boating fatalities are drownings, and most of those fatalities could have been avoided. Ninety percent of drowning victims are not wearing a life jacket, drownings are rare when boaters are wearing an appropriate PFD. One of the most important things you can do to make boating safe and enjoyable is not only to carry enough life jackets for everyone on board but also to have everyone wear them.
These requirements for PFDs are both important and the law.
PFDs must be readily accessible. Better yet, each person should wear a PFD because PFDs are difficult to put on once you are in the water. In most fatal accidents, PFDs were on board but were not in use or were not within easy reach. If you are in the water without a PFD, retrieve a floating PFD and hold it to your chest by wrapping your arms around it.
PFDs must be of the proper size for the intended wearer. Always read the label of the PFD to make sure it is the right size based on the person's weight and chest size. It's especially important to check that a child's PFD fits snugly. Test the fit by picking the child up by the shoulders of the PFD and checking that his or her chin and ears do not slip through the PFD. PFDs must be in good and serviceable condition.
Regularly test a PFD's buoyancy in shallow water or a swimming pool. Over time, the ultraviolet radiation from the sun will break down the synthetic materials of your PFD. Frequently inspect PFDs for rips or tears, discolored or weakened material, insecure straps or zippers, or labels that are no longer readable. Discard and replace any PFD that has a problem. If using an inflatable PFD, before each outing check the status of the inflator and that the CO2 cylinder has not been used, has no leaks, and is screwed in tightly.
Also check that the PFD itself has no leaks by removing the CO2 cylinder and orally inflating the PFD. The PFD should still be firm after several hours. After an inflatable PFD has been inflated using a cylinder, replace the spent cylinder and re-arm it. Because an inflatable PFD is a mechanical device, it requires regular maintenance. Maintain the inflatable portion of the PFD as instructed in the owner's manual.
Inflatable Life Jackets
Some people say they don’t wear their PFDs because they’re too hot or too bulky. But that’s not an excuse anymore. Inflatable PFDs offer a U.S. Coast Guard approved life jacket that is small and lightweight. Inflatable life jackets come in two styles: a PFD that looks like a pair of suspenders or a belt pack that looks like a small fanny pack.
Some of these PFDs are designed to inflate if the wearer falls into the water; others require the wearer to pull a cord. Inflatable PFDs are approved only for people 16 and older, and they are not to be worn on PWCs or while water-skiing. Read the operating instructions and the approval label before you choose an inflatable PFD. Then be sure to wear it.
Rescue Technique
If you are on a dock when someone falls in, you should try to "talk" the victim to safety. If he or she is unable to get to the dock, you should:
Reach
Extend a fishing rod, branch, oar, towel, or other object that can be used to REACH out to the victim and pull him or her to safety. If nothing is available, lay flat on the dock and grab the victim's hand or wrist, and pull him or her to safety.
Throw
If the victim is too far away to reach and a boat isn't handy, throw the victim a PFD or anything else that will float.
Row
If a rowboat is available, ROW to the victim and then use an oar or paddle to pull the victim to the stern. Let the victim hold onto the stern as you paddle to shore. If the victim is too weak, hold onto him or her until help arrives. If using a powerboat, stop the engine and glide to the victim from the downwind side.
Go
Swimmers without lifesaving training should not swim to a victim. Instead, GO for help. If you must swim, take along anything that floats to keep between you and the victim.
Risk Management
Because most accidents are the result of a simple mistake, nearly all accidents are easily preventable. The best way to avoid having a serious accident is to take a few simple steps toward accident prevention. The water can be an unfriendly environment if you don't recognize risks and are not properly prepared for them. Risk management is the process of recognizing and acting upon accident warning signs or minimizing the effects of an accident if it does occur. If you know the "rules of the road" and how important they are to you and other boats and potential hazards and to maintain a safe speed. By practicing these rules, you greatly reduce the chance that you'll be involved in an accident.
Get in the habit of wearing your life jacket also reduces the chance that you will drown should you find yourself in the water unexpectedly. Below is additional information to help you understand and minimize the risks associated with boating and make your time on the water safe .
Increased Risk Due To Boating Stressors
The glare and heat of the sun, along with the motion of the vessel caused by the wind and the waves and the noise and vibration of the engine, have a large impact on your body that you may not even realize. These natural stressors make you tire more rapidly when on the water regardless of your age or level of fitness. Many boaters greatly underestimate the effect these stressors have on fatigue. While perhaps not fatal themselves, stressors may weaken your body and mind enough to make the risk of an accident much greater.
Increased Risk Due to Dehydration
A typical boating day in the summer causes your body to generate a large amount of heat. Sitting exposed in the sun increases your body heat. As you ride in a boat, your body automatically adjusts to the changing position of the boat. The exertion of this constant adjustment increases body heat.
The way the body rids itself of increased heat is by sweating. Increased sweating will cause dehydration if fluids are not replaced. Dehydration will make you more fatigued and more at risk for a boating accident.
The best way to minimize the risk of dehydration is to drink plenty of water before, during, and after any water activities. A good rule of thumb while you are boating in warm weather is to drink some water every 15-20 minutes.
Besides thirst, other signs of dehydration are a dry mouth, sleepiness, irritability, weakness, dizziness, and a headache. The first thing you should do if you experience any of these symptoms is to drink plenty of water. If possible, get out of the sun and rest. Serious dehydration may require medical attention. Most accidents are preventable. Even accidents attributed to the environment most likely could have been prevented if the operator had not overlooked the warning signals, had not made poor decisions, or had the proper boating skills. Many accidents attributed to equipment also could have been prevented if proper maintenance and defect detection had taken place.
A Typical U.S. Boating Fatality
Someone not wearing a PFD falls overboard and drowns or
A vessel capsizes and someone drowns or
A vessel strikes another vessel or fixed object, and the occupants are fatally injured or drown due to injuries.
Collisions can occur because boat operators are not staying alert and keeping a lookout for other boats or objects, or are going a little faster than they should. Although some collisions happen at night when it is difficult to see, many occur in daylight hours on calm, clear days. About one-third of the time, alcohol is involved.
You also might be surprised to learn that:
Typically, victims drown even though there are enough life jackets on the boat. (Remember, you probably won't have time to put on your life jacket during an emergency. Get in the habit of wearing it.) The vessel is most often a small boat of open design, such as a jon boat, canoe, or other type of boat with low sides. The victims are usually men 26 to 50 years old, who have been boating for years and likely know how to swim.
Remember, it only takes one mistake to ruin your day of boating. Pay attention, slow down a little, and wear a life jacket.
Minimize Risk of Boating Accidents, Avoid Alcohol
The effect of alcohol is increased by the natural stressors placed on your body while boating. Also, alcohol causes dehydration of your body. It takes less alcohol, combined with stressors, to impair an operator's ability to operate safely. Research has proven that one-third of the amount of alcohol that it takes to make a person legally intoxicated on land can make a boater equally intoxicated on the water.
Alcohol depresses the central nervous system, affects judgment, and slows physical reaction time. Most people become impaired after only one drink. Alcohol makes it difficult for you to pay attention and perform multiple tasks. For example, it will be more difficult for you to keep track of two or more vessels operating in your area. This could become critical if you are placed in an emergency situation and must make a sudden decision.
Alcohol can reduce your ability to distinguish colors, especially red and green. Alcohol impairment increases the likelihood of accidents—for both passengers and vessel operators. Always designate non-drinking boaters to operate the vessel and to act as an observer if your group plans to consume alcohol. Do not allow your skipper to operate if he or she is drinking. Alcohol is a major contributor to boating accidents and fatalities. Drinking while boating is a choice. The best way to minimize the risk of an accident is to make the wise choice—Don't drink and boat!
Minimize Risk of Drownings, Wear PFDs (Life Jackets)
Approximately 70% of all boating fatalities are drownings, and most of those fatalities could have been avoided. Ninety percent of drowning victims are not wearing a life jacket, drownings are rare when boaters are wearing an appropriate PFD. One of the most important things you can do to make boating safe and enjoyable is not only to carry enough life jackets for everyone on board but also to have everyone wear them.
These requirements for PFDs are both important and the law.
PFDs must be readily accessible. Better yet, each person should wear a PFD because PFDs are difficult to put on once you are in the water. In most fatal accidents, PFDs were on board but were not in use or were not within easy reach. If you are in the water without a PFD, retrieve a floating PFD and hold it to your chest by wrapping your arms around it.
PFDs must be of the proper size for the intended wearer. Always read the label of the PFD to make sure it is the right size based on the person's weight and chest size. It's especially important to check that a child's PFD fits snugly. Test the fit by picking the child up by the shoulders of the PFD and checking that his or her chin and ears do not slip through the PFD. PFDs must be in good and serviceable condition.
Regularly test a PFD's buoyancy in shallow water or a swimming pool. Over time, the ultraviolet radiation from the sun will break down the synthetic materials of your PFD. Frequently inspect PFDs for rips or tears, discolored or weakened material, insecure straps or zippers, or labels that are no longer readable. Discard and replace any PFD that has a problem. If using an inflatable PFD, before each outing check the status of the inflator and that the CO2 cylinder has not been used, has no leaks, and is screwed in tightly.
Also check that the PFD itself has no leaks by removing the CO2 cylinder and orally inflating the PFD. The PFD should still be firm after several hours. After an inflatable PFD has been inflated using a cylinder, replace the spent cylinder and re-arm it. Because an inflatable PFD is a mechanical device, it requires regular maintenance. Maintain the inflatable portion of the PFD as instructed in the owner's manual.
Inflatable Life Jackets
Some people say they don’t wear their PFDs because they’re too hot or too bulky. But that’s not an excuse anymore. Inflatable PFDs offer a U.S. Coast Guard approved life jacket that is small and lightweight. Inflatable life jackets come in two styles: a PFD that looks like a pair of suspenders or a belt pack that looks like a small fanny pack.
Some of these PFDs are designed to inflate if the wearer falls into the water; others require the wearer to pull a cord. Inflatable PFDs are approved only for people 16 and older, and they are not to be worn on PWCs or while water-skiing. Read the operating instructions and the approval label before you choose an inflatable PFD. Then be sure to wear it.
Rescue Technique
If you are on a dock when someone falls in, you should try to "talk" the victim to safety. If he or she is unable to get to the dock, you should:
Reach
Extend a fishing rod, branch, oar, towel, or other object that can be used to REACH out to the victim and pull him or her to safety. If nothing is available, lay flat on the dock and grab the victim's hand or wrist, and pull him or her to safety.
Throw
If the victim is too far away to reach and a boat isn't handy, throw the victim a PFD or anything else that will float.
Row
If a rowboat is available, ROW to the victim and then use an oar or paddle to pull the victim to the stern. Let the victim hold onto the stern as you paddle to shore. If the victim is too weak, hold onto him or her until help arrives. If using a powerboat, stop the engine and glide to the victim from the downwind side.
Go
Swimmers without lifesaving training should not swim to a victim. Instead, GO for help. If you must swim, take along anything that floats to keep between you and the victim.
Thursday, June 11, 2009
Ocean Charter Equipment List
Magnetic Compass : An installed, marine-style magnetic compass shall be located at the vessel’s primary steering station. Uninspected vessels less than 26 feet of open construction can use a portable or hand-held compass as an alternative means of compliance.
Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB) : A satellite 406 MHz EPIRB is required for all charter vessels operating at any distance offshore.
Running Lights : Vessels shall be equipped with lighting configurations as specified in a Navigation Rules for International and Inland waters.
Power / Hand Operated Bilge Pump/Bailing Bucket :
All vessels must comply with U.S.C.G. requirements as listed:
Vessels less than 7.9m (26ft) up to 19.8m (65ft) not carrying more than 49 pass:
A bilge high water warning system shall not be required on dory style
1 – fixed power pump and one – portable hand pump, or, 1 – fixed hand pump and one – portable hand pump
Vessels not more than 19.8m (65ft), carrying more than 49 passengers:
1 – fixed power pump and 1 – portable hand pump
Vessels more than 19.8 m (65ft): 2 – fixed power pumps. Additionally, each must have, 1 – five gallon bucket
Depth Finder : An installed (not portable), functioning depth finding unit shall be at or near the vessel’s primary steering station. The equipment shall provide an adequate range of depth scales allowing the operator to select scales that provide ample safety warning of abrupt ocean bottom contour changes.
Light / Smoke Flares : Vessels operating in ocean or coastal waters and bays/rivers, with an opening to the seas of 2 miles or more, are required to carry light and or smoke flares as follows:
Coastal, less than 3 miles from the coastline - One electronic distress light, or 3 approved flares, and one distress flag or 3 approved flares or 3 approved smoke signals
Ocean, more than 3 miles from the coastline - 3 parachute flares, 6 hand flares, and 3 smoke flares.
Life Jackets / Life Ring : Each vessel shall carry (as a minimum) the following:
One U.S.C.G. approved life jacket (readily accessible, Type I, II, III or V of suitable size for the intended wearer) for each person on board. On U.S.C.G approved life ring, Type IV, (immediately available)
First Aid Kit : Each vessel shall carry on board a first aid kit containing at least the items specified in this section. The first aid kit shall be plainly marked and shall consist of a weatherproof container with individual sealed packages for each type of item. Contents of such kit shall contain a sufficient quantity of at least the following types of items:
Bandage compress, 4 inch, (1 pkg)
Bandage compress, 2 inch (4 pkgs)
Waterproof adhesive compress, 1 inch, (16 pkgs)
Eye dressing, 1/8th oz. ophthalmic ointment, adhesive strips, cotton pads, (1 pkg)
Bandage, gauze, compressed, 1 inches X 6 yards, (2 pkgs)
Tourniquet (1), forceps (1), scissors (1), safety pins (12)
Wire splint, (1 ea)
Ammonia inhalants, (10 ea)
Iodine applicators, (10 ea)
Aspirin, phenacetin & caffeine compound, 1-1/2 Gr. Tablets, vials of 20, (2 pkgs)
Sterile petrolatum gauze, 3 inches X 18 inches, (4 pkgs)
Contents of the first aid kit shall be checked before each trip and at least weekly to ensure the expended or expired items are replaced.
Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB) : A satellite 406 MHz EPIRB is required for all charter vessels operating at any distance offshore.
Running Lights : Vessels shall be equipped with lighting configurations as specified in a Navigation Rules for International and Inland waters.
Power / Hand Operated Bilge Pump/Bailing Bucket :
All vessels must comply with U.S.C.G. requirements as listed:
Vessels less than 7.9m (26ft) up to 19.8m (65ft) not carrying more than 49 pass:
A bilge high water warning system shall not be required on dory style
1 – fixed power pump and one – portable hand pump, or, 1 – fixed hand pump and one – portable hand pump
Vessels not more than 19.8m (65ft), carrying more than 49 passengers:
1 – fixed power pump and 1 – portable hand pump
Vessels more than 19.8 m (65ft): 2 – fixed power pumps. Additionally, each must have, 1 – five gallon bucket
Depth Finder : An installed (not portable), functioning depth finding unit shall be at or near the vessel’s primary steering station. The equipment shall provide an adequate range of depth scales allowing the operator to select scales that provide ample safety warning of abrupt ocean bottom contour changes.
Light / Smoke Flares : Vessels operating in ocean or coastal waters and bays/rivers, with an opening to the seas of 2 miles or more, are required to carry light and or smoke flares as follows:
Coastal, less than 3 miles from the coastline - One electronic distress light, or 3 approved flares, and one distress flag or 3 approved flares or 3 approved smoke signals
Ocean, more than 3 miles from the coastline - 3 parachute flares, 6 hand flares, and 3 smoke flares.
Life Jackets / Life Ring : Each vessel shall carry (as a minimum) the following:
One U.S.C.G. approved life jacket (readily accessible, Type I, II, III or V of suitable size for the intended wearer) for each person on board. On U.S.C.G approved life ring, Type IV, (immediately available)
First Aid Kit : Each vessel shall carry on board a first aid kit containing at least the items specified in this section. The first aid kit shall be plainly marked and shall consist of a weatherproof container with individual sealed packages for each type of item. Contents of such kit shall contain a sufficient quantity of at least the following types of items:
Bandage compress, 4 inch, (1 pkg)
Bandage compress, 2 inch (4 pkgs)
Waterproof adhesive compress, 1 inch, (16 pkgs)
Eye dressing, 1/8th oz. ophthalmic ointment, adhesive strips, cotton pads, (1 pkg)
Bandage, gauze, compressed, 1 inches X 6 yards, (2 pkgs)
Tourniquet (1), forceps (1), scissors (1), safety pins (12)
Wire splint, (1 ea)
Ammonia inhalants, (10 ea)
Iodine applicators, (10 ea)
Aspirin, phenacetin & caffeine compound, 1-1/2 Gr. Tablets, vials of 20, (2 pkgs)
Sterile petrolatum gauze, 3 inches X 18 inches, (4 pkgs)
Contents of the first aid kit shall be checked before each trip and at least weekly to ensure the expended or expired items are replaced.
Friday, March 20, 2009
Fire Extinguishers for Small Boats
Coast Guard Approved fire extinguishers are required on boats where a fire hazard could be expected from the motors or the fuel system. Extinguishers are classified by a letter and number symbol. The letter indicates the type fire the unit is designed to extinguish (Type B for example are designed to extinguish liquids such as gasoline, oil, and grease fires. The number tells you the size of the extinguisher. The higher the number, the larger the extinguisher.
Coast Guard approved extinguishers required for boats are hand portable, either B-1 or B-II classification and have a specific marine type mounting bracket. It is recommended the extinguishers be mounted in a readily accessible position, away from the areas where a fire could likely start such as the galley or the engine compartment.
Extinguisher markings can be confusing because extinguishers can be approved for several different types of hazards. For instance, an extinguisher marked "Type A, Size II, Type B or C, Size I" is a B-1 extinguisher. Look for the part of the label that says "Marine Type USCG" Make sure Type B is indicated. Portable extinguishers will be either size I or II. Size III and larger are too big for use on most recreational boats.
Fire Extinguishers are required on boats when any of the following conditions exist:
1. Inboard engines are installed.
2. There are closed compartments and compartments under seats where portable fuel tanks may be stored.
3. There are double bottoms not sealed to the hull or which are not completely filled with flotation materials.
4. There are closed living spaces.
5. There are closed stowage compartments in which combustible or flammable materials are stored.
6. There are permanently installed fuel tanks. (Fuel tanks secured so they cannot be moved in case of fire or other emergency are considered permanently installed. There are no gallon capacity limits to determine if a fuel tank is portable. If the weight of a fuel tank is such that persons on board cannot move it, the Coast Guard considers it permanently installed.)
Fire Extinguisher Maintenance
Inspect extinguishers monthly to make sure that:
1. Seals and tamper indicators are not broken or missing.
2. Pressure gauges or indicators read in the operable range. Note: CO2 extinguishers do not have gauges.
3. There is no obvious physical damage, rust, corrosion, leakage or clogged nozzles.
4. Weigh extinguishers annually to make sure the minimum weight is as stated on the extinguisher label.
If your extinguisher has been partially emptied they have to be replaced or taken to a qualified fire extinguisher company for recharge.
Required Number of Fire Extinguishers
The number of fire extinguishers required on a recreational boat are based on the overall length of the boat. The following chart lists the number of extinguishers that are required. In the case where a Coast Guard approved fire extinguishing system is installed for the protection of the engine compartment, the required number of units may be reduced in accordance with the chart.
Vessel less than 26 feet with no fixed system are required to have 1 B-I fire extinguisher.
Vessels 26 feet to less than 40 feet with no fixed system are required to have 2 B-I or 1 B-II.
Vessels 40 feet to 65 feet with no fixed system are required to have 3 B-I or 1 B II and 1 B-1.
Coast Guard approved extinguishers required for boats are hand portable, either B-1 or B-II classification and have a specific marine type mounting bracket. It is recommended the extinguishers be mounted in a readily accessible position, away from the areas where a fire could likely start such as the galley or the engine compartment.
Extinguisher markings can be confusing because extinguishers can be approved for several different types of hazards. For instance, an extinguisher marked "Type A, Size II, Type B or C, Size I" is a B-1 extinguisher. Look for the part of the label that says "Marine Type USCG" Make sure Type B is indicated. Portable extinguishers will be either size I or II. Size III and larger are too big for use on most recreational boats.
Fire Extinguishers are required on boats when any of the following conditions exist:
1. Inboard engines are installed.
2. There are closed compartments and compartments under seats where portable fuel tanks may be stored.
3. There are double bottoms not sealed to the hull or which are not completely filled with flotation materials.
4. There are closed living spaces.
5. There are closed stowage compartments in which combustible or flammable materials are stored.
6. There are permanently installed fuel tanks. (Fuel tanks secured so they cannot be moved in case of fire or other emergency are considered permanently installed. There are no gallon capacity limits to determine if a fuel tank is portable. If the weight of a fuel tank is such that persons on board cannot move it, the Coast Guard considers it permanently installed.)
Fire Extinguisher Maintenance
Inspect extinguishers monthly to make sure that:
1. Seals and tamper indicators are not broken or missing.
2. Pressure gauges or indicators read in the operable range. Note: CO2 extinguishers do not have gauges.
3. There is no obvious physical damage, rust, corrosion, leakage or clogged nozzles.
4. Weigh extinguishers annually to make sure the minimum weight is as stated on the extinguisher label.
If your extinguisher has been partially emptied they have to be replaced or taken to a qualified fire extinguisher company for recharge.
Required Number of Fire Extinguishers
The number of fire extinguishers required on a recreational boat are based on the overall length of the boat. The following chart lists the number of extinguishers that are required. In the case where a Coast Guard approved fire extinguishing system is installed for the protection of the engine compartment, the required number of units may be reduced in accordance with the chart.
Vessel less than 26 feet with no fixed system are required to have 1 B-I fire extinguisher.
Vessels 26 feet to less than 40 feet with no fixed system are required to have 2 B-I or 1 B-II.
Vessels 40 feet to 65 feet with no fixed system are required to have 3 B-I or 1 B II and 1 B-1.
Saturday, March 14, 2009
Visual Distress Signals for Small Boats
All vessels on coastal waters, the Great Lakes, and territorial seas must have approved Coast Guard approved visual distress signals onboard. These vessels are not required to carry day signals but must carry night signals when operating from sunset to sunrise:
Recreational boats less than16 feet in length.
Boats in organized events such as races, and regattas.
Open sailboats less men 26 feet in length not equipped with propulsion machinery.
Manually propelled boats.
Pyrotechnic Visual Distress Signals must be Caast Guard Approved, in serviceable condition, and readily accessible.
1. They are marked with an expiration date. Expired signals may be carried as extra equipment, but can not be counted toward meeting the visual distress signal requirement, since they may be unreliable.
2. Launchers manufactured before January 1, 1981, intended far use with approved signals, are nat required ta be Coast Guard Approved.
3. If pyrotechnic devices are selected a minimum of three are required. That is, three signals for day use and three signal for night. Some pyrotechnic signals meet both day and night use If you can get a watertight container painted red or orange and mark it "DISTRESS SIGNALS" or "FLARES".
Coast Guard approved pyrotechnic visual distress signals are:
1. Red Flares, hand held or aerial.
2. Orange Smoke, hand held or floating.
3. Launchers for aerial red meteors or parachute flares.
EACH OF THESE DEVICES HAS A DIFFERENT OPERATING (BURNING) TIME. CHECK THE LABEL TO SEE HOW LONG EACH PYROTECHNIC DEVICE WILL ACTUALLY BE ILLUMINATED. THIS WILL ALLOW YOU TO SELECT A WARNING DEVICE BETTER SUITED TO THE CONDITIONS WHERE YOUR BOAT WILL OPERATE.
Non-Pyrotechnic Devices
Non-Pyrotechnic Visual Distress Signals must be in serviceable condition, readily accessible, and certified by the manufacturer as complying with U.S.C.G. requirements. They are:
Orange Distress Flag, day signal only. Must be at least 3 x 3 feet with a black square and ball an an orange background. Must be marked with an indication that it meets Coast Guard requirements in 46 CFR 160.072. Most distinctive when attached and waved on a paddle, boathook, or flown from a mast. It can also be incorporated as part of devices designed to attract attention in an emergency, such as balloons, kites, or floating streamers.
Electric distress light, accepted for night use only. Automatically flashes the international SOS distress signal ... - - - ... Must be marked with an indication that it meets Coast Guard requirements in 46 CFR 161.013. Under Inland Navigation Rules, a high intensity white light flashing at regular intervals from 50-70 times per minute is considered a distress signal. But these devices do NOT count toward meeting the visual distress signal requirement.
The regulations prohibit display of visual distress signals an the water under any circumstances except when assistance is required to prevent immediate or potential danger to persons on board a vessel.
All distress signals have distinct advantages and disadvantages. No single device is ideal under all conditions or suitable for all purposes. Pyrotechnics are recognized as excellent distress signals. However, there is potential for injury and property damage if not properly handled. These devices produce a very hot flame and the residue can cause burns and ignite flammable materials.
Pistol launched and hand, held parachute flares and meteors have many characteristics of a firearm and must be handled with caution. In some states they are considered a firearm and prohibited from use.
Here are some of the devices which you can carry to meet the requirements:
1. Three hand held red flares (day and night).
2. One hand held red flare and two parachute flares (day or night).
3. One hand held orange smoke signal, two floating orange smoke signals (day) and one electric distress light (night only).
Note: Make sure you have the current dates on your distress signals.
Recreational boats less than16 feet in length.
Boats in organized events such as races, and regattas.
Open sailboats less men 26 feet in length not equipped with propulsion machinery.
Manually propelled boats.
Pyrotechnic Visual Distress Signals must be Caast Guard Approved, in serviceable condition, and readily accessible.
1. They are marked with an expiration date. Expired signals may be carried as extra equipment, but can not be counted toward meeting the visual distress signal requirement, since they may be unreliable.
2. Launchers manufactured before January 1, 1981, intended far use with approved signals, are nat required ta be Coast Guard Approved.
3. If pyrotechnic devices are selected a minimum of three are required. That is, three signals for day use and three signal for night. Some pyrotechnic signals meet both day and night use If you can get a watertight container painted red or orange and mark it "DISTRESS SIGNALS" or "FLARES".
Coast Guard approved pyrotechnic visual distress signals are:
1. Red Flares, hand held or aerial.
2. Orange Smoke, hand held or floating.
3. Launchers for aerial red meteors or parachute flares.
EACH OF THESE DEVICES HAS A DIFFERENT OPERATING (BURNING) TIME. CHECK THE LABEL TO SEE HOW LONG EACH PYROTECHNIC DEVICE WILL ACTUALLY BE ILLUMINATED. THIS WILL ALLOW YOU TO SELECT A WARNING DEVICE BETTER SUITED TO THE CONDITIONS WHERE YOUR BOAT WILL OPERATE.
Non-Pyrotechnic Devices
Non-Pyrotechnic Visual Distress Signals must be in serviceable condition, readily accessible, and certified by the manufacturer as complying with U.S.C.G. requirements. They are:
Orange Distress Flag, day signal only. Must be at least 3 x 3 feet with a black square and ball an an orange background. Must be marked with an indication that it meets Coast Guard requirements in 46 CFR 160.072. Most distinctive when attached and waved on a paddle, boathook, or flown from a mast. It can also be incorporated as part of devices designed to attract attention in an emergency, such as balloons, kites, or floating streamers.
Electric distress light, accepted for night use only. Automatically flashes the international SOS distress signal ... - - - ... Must be marked with an indication that it meets Coast Guard requirements in 46 CFR 161.013. Under Inland Navigation Rules, a high intensity white light flashing at regular intervals from 50-70 times per minute is considered a distress signal. But these devices do NOT count toward meeting the visual distress signal requirement.
The regulations prohibit display of visual distress signals an the water under any circumstances except when assistance is required to prevent immediate or potential danger to persons on board a vessel.
All distress signals have distinct advantages and disadvantages. No single device is ideal under all conditions or suitable for all purposes. Pyrotechnics are recognized as excellent distress signals. However, there is potential for injury and property damage if not properly handled. These devices produce a very hot flame and the residue can cause burns and ignite flammable materials.
Pistol launched and hand, held parachute flares and meteors have many characteristics of a firearm and must be handled with caution. In some states they are considered a firearm and prohibited from use.
Here are some of the devices which you can carry to meet the requirements:
1. Three hand held red flares (day and night).
2. One hand held red flare and two parachute flares (day or night).
3. One hand held orange smoke signal, two floating orange smoke signals (day) and one electric distress light (night only).
Note: Make sure you have the current dates on your distress signals.
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
Water Pollution Prevention
The Refuse Act of 1899 and the Act to Prevent Pollution from Ships (33 USC: 1901-1911) prohibit the throwing, discharge, or depositing of any refuse matter of any kind (including trash, garbage, oil, and other liquid pollutants) into the waters of the U.S. (from the shoreline to a distance of three miles). The Federal Water Pollution Control Act prohibits the discharge of oil or hazardous substances in quantities that may be harmful into U.S. navigable waters, the contiguous zone, and waters within 200 miles.
REPORTING REQUIREMENTS
A person in charge of a vessel or an onshore or offshore facility is required to immediately report by telephone, radio telecommunication, or other similar means, any discharge of oil or other hazardous substance into the water. Reports should be made by calling toll-free to the National Pollution Response Center at (800) 424-8802. Penalty for discharging harmful oil is a maximum of $5,000 assessed against the person-in-charge of the source. Failure to notify the Coast Guard is a criminal penalty with a maximum $10,000 charge and/or one-year imprisonment. The owner/operator of the vessel or shore facility is liable for removal costs. Limits of liability are determined by vessel tonnage.
MARINE SANITATION DEVICE REGULATIONS
Certified marine sanitation devices (MSDs) are required on all vessels with installed toilet facilities. Direct discharge toilets are illegal unless the vessel is operating under a waiver granted by the Commandant (CG- 3PVC), U.S. Coast Guard, Washington, DC 20593-0001. This includes any equipment for installation onboard a vessel that is designed to receive, retain, treat, or discharge sewage and any process that treats such sewage. It does not include "portable toilets" which can be carried on and off the vessel. The discharge of untreated or inadequately treated sewage inside 3NM into U.S. waters is prohibited for all vessels, including foreign, federal, and state-owned vessels operating in U.S. waters. Noncompliance will result in civil penalties of up to $2,000. Manufacturers that sell MSDs or manufacturers of vessels with MSDs aboard that do not comply with these regulations are subject to fines of up to $5,000. More specific information concerning water pollution is contained in Title 33 Code of Federal Regulations, Parts 153, 155, and 159. All boaters must help to ensure that others obey the law and are encouraged to report polluting discharges to the nearest Coast Guard Office or call toll-free 1-800-424-8802. Please report the following information: 1) location 2) source 3) size 4) color 5) substance and 6) time observed. DO NOT attempt to take samples of any chemical discharge. If uncertain as to the identity of any discharge, avoid flame, physical contact, or inhalation of fumes. Law Enforcement 88 of 111 Chapter X
OIL POLLUTION REGULATIONS
A vessel, except a vessel of less than 26 feet in length, must have a placard of at least 5 by 8 inches, made of durable material, fixed in a conspicuous place in each machinery space, or at the bilge and ballast pump control station, stating the following: DISCHARGE OF OIL PROHIBITED THE FEDERAL WATER POLLUTION CONTROL ACT PROHIBITS THE DISCHARGE OF OIL OR OILY WASTE INTO OR UPON THE NAVIGABLE WATERS OF THE UNITED STATES OR THE WATERS OF THE CONTIGUOUS ZONE IF SUCH DISCHARGE CAUSES A FILM OR SHEEN UPON OR DISCOLORATION OF THE SURFACE OF THE WATER OR CAUSES A SLUDGE OR EMULSION BENEATH THE SURFACE OF THE WATER. VIOLATORS ARE SUBJECT TO A PENALTY OF $5,000.
a. FACILITIES (33 CFR §154): Any facility that transfers oil in bulk to or from a vessel with a capacity of 250 or more barrels of oil must comply with these regulations. Operators of these facilities must submit letters of intent and operations manuals. Equipment requirements and transfer procedures are set forth in 33 CFR §154.
b. VESSELS (33 CFR §155): This section deals with vessel design, operations, and equipment requirements. No person may drain oil sumps, filters, strainers, or purifiers into a vessel’s bilge. Personnel qualifications and oil transfers procedures are also specified. Another part of this section requires all U.S. vessels of 26 ft or greater to display a placard.
c. TRANSFER OPERATIONS (33 CFR §156): This part deals with oil transfer operations, setting forth requirements for oil transfer, inspection procedures, equipment tests, and supervisory responsibilities.
d. TANK VESSELS (33 CFR §157): These regulations govern the design and operation of seagoing U.S. tank ships and barges of 150 gross tons and over that carry oil in the U.S. domestic trade. These regulations should reduce pollution from tank cleaning and deballasting operations. Copies of these regulations may be obtained from the nearest Government Printing Office or marine supply store. For any questions concerning these regulations contact your nearest Coast Guard Captain of the Port.
GARBAGE DISCHARGE REGULATIONS
As of July 31, 1990, certain U.S. vessels are required to post garbage discharge placards for their crews and passengers. Certain other U.S. vessels are required to develop waste management plans and post garbage discharge placards for their crew and passengers. Placards are required for all manned U.S. vessels 26 feet or more in length. One or more placards must be placed in prominent locations and in sufficient numbers so they can be read by the crew and passengers. The placard locations must be readily accessible to the intended reader. Locations may include embarkation points, food service facilities, garbage handling spaces, and common spaces on deck. Coast Guard boarding officers must be satisfied that placards are located in such a manner, and in sufficient quantity, that every crew member and passenger aboard the vessel would have access to a placard. Boarding officers will have an ample supply of placards for public distribution during boardings. Individual mariners and small groups requesting placards may contact the Center for Marine Conservation, 312 Sutter Street, Suite 606, San Francisco, CA 94108, or call (415) 956-7441. A waste management plan and placard are required for all manned, ocean going U.S. vessels greater than 40 feet in length that are engaged in commerce, or equipped with a galley and berthing. The waste management plan must be developed in writing and meet the garbage discharge requirements of Title 33 Code of Federal Regulations subparts 151.51 through 151.77. Any person handling garbage on board the vessel must follow the provisions of the plan. The plan must describe procedures for collecting, processing, storing, and discharging garbage. The plan must designate the person who is in charge of carrying out the plan. The following is an example of a waste management plan for a vessel operating inside of three nautical miles from shore: "Solid waste management procedures. All garbage generated on the vessel is put in a garbage bag and disposed of in a trash container located at the port of call (or given to a tender vessel to take to shore for disposal). All crewmembers are to be oriented to the requirements of MARPOL Annex V by the captain. All new crewmembers will be specifically shown the garbage discharge placard and told to keep all refuse stowed on board. Passenger orientation to the vessel should include being shown the location of the trash receptacle, mention of refuse discharge regulations, and the name of the person charged with the Law Enforcement 89 of 111 Chapter X responsibility for carrying out the plan." Vessels operating beyond three nautical miles from shore must develop a plan that meets the requirements of MARPOL 73/78 Annex V, Garbage Discharge Restrictions. DISPOSAL OF PLASTICS AND OTHER GARBAGE IN U.S. WATERS New Federal regulations controlling disposal of garbage from vessels prohibit the discharge of plastic garbage anywhere in the marine environment. Plastic includes, but is not limited to: Plastic bags, Styrofoam, cups and lids, six pack holders, bottles, caps, buckets, shoes, milk jugs, egg cartons, stirrers, straws, synthetic fishing nets, ropes, lines, and "bio- or photo-degradable" plastics. These regulations also restrict the disposal of other types of garbage within specified distances from shore.
DEFINITIONS OF ADDITIONAL TYPES OF WASTE
a. GARBAGE - all kinds of food, cargo, and maintenance waste, ashes or clinkers, and domestic waste (generated in living spaces aboard the vessel -- what we normally call trash). "Garbage" does not include fresh fish or fish parts, dishwater, and gray-water.
b. DISHWATER - the liquid residue from the manual or automatic washing of dishes and cooking utensils which have been pre-cleaned to the extent that any food particles adhering to them would not normally interfere with the operation of automatic dishwashers.
c. DUNNAGE - cargo associated waste.
d. GRAYWATER - drainage from a dishwasher, shower, laundry, bath, or washbowl and does not include drainage from toilets, urinals, hospitals, and cargo spaces. All U.S. vessels, wherever they operate, and foreign vessels operating in U.S. waters out to and including the Exclusive Economic Zone (200 miles) must comply with Annex V of MARPOL 73/78.
REPORTING REQUIREMENTS
A person in charge of a vessel or an onshore or offshore facility is required to immediately report by telephone, radio telecommunication, or other similar means, any discharge of oil or other hazardous substance into the water. Reports should be made by calling toll-free to the National Pollution Response Center at (800) 424-8802. Penalty for discharging harmful oil is a maximum of $5,000 assessed against the person-in-charge of the source. Failure to notify the Coast Guard is a criminal penalty with a maximum $10,000 charge and/or one-year imprisonment. The owner/operator of the vessel or shore facility is liable for removal costs. Limits of liability are determined by vessel tonnage.
MARINE SANITATION DEVICE REGULATIONS
Certified marine sanitation devices (MSDs) are required on all vessels with installed toilet facilities. Direct discharge toilets are illegal unless the vessel is operating under a waiver granted by the Commandant (CG- 3PVC), U.S. Coast Guard, Washington, DC 20593-0001. This includes any equipment for installation onboard a vessel that is designed to receive, retain, treat, or discharge sewage and any process that treats such sewage. It does not include "portable toilets" which can be carried on and off the vessel. The discharge of untreated or inadequately treated sewage inside 3NM into U.S. waters is prohibited for all vessels, including foreign, federal, and state-owned vessels operating in U.S. waters. Noncompliance will result in civil penalties of up to $2,000. Manufacturers that sell MSDs or manufacturers of vessels with MSDs aboard that do not comply with these regulations are subject to fines of up to $5,000. More specific information concerning water pollution is contained in Title 33 Code of Federal Regulations, Parts 153, 155, and 159. All boaters must help to ensure that others obey the law and are encouraged to report polluting discharges to the nearest Coast Guard Office or call toll-free 1-800-424-8802. Please report the following information: 1) location 2) source 3) size 4) color 5) substance and 6) time observed. DO NOT attempt to take samples of any chemical discharge. If uncertain as to the identity of any discharge, avoid flame, physical contact, or inhalation of fumes. Law Enforcement 88 of 111 Chapter X
OIL POLLUTION REGULATIONS
A vessel, except a vessel of less than 26 feet in length, must have a placard of at least 5 by 8 inches, made of durable material, fixed in a conspicuous place in each machinery space, or at the bilge and ballast pump control station, stating the following: DISCHARGE OF OIL PROHIBITED THE FEDERAL WATER POLLUTION CONTROL ACT PROHIBITS THE DISCHARGE OF OIL OR OILY WASTE INTO OR UPON THE NAVIGABLE WATERS OF THE UNITED STATES OR THE WATERS OF THE CONTIGUOUS ZONE IF SUCH DISCHARGE CAUSES A FILM OR SHEEN UPON OR DISCOLORATION OF THE SURFACE OF THE WATER OR CAUSES A SLUDGE OR EMULSION BENEATH THE SURFACE OF THE WATER. VIOLATORS ARE SUBJECT TO A PENALTY OF $5,000.
a. FACILITIES (33 CFR §154): Any facility that transfers oil in bulk to or from a vessel with a capacity of 250 or more barrels of oil must comply with these regulations. Operators of these facilities must submit letters of intent and operations manuals. Equipment requirements and transfer procedures are set forth in 33 CFR §154.
b. VESSELS (33 CFR §155): This section deals with vessel design, operations, and equipment requirements. No person may drain oil sumps, filters, strainers, or purifiers into a vessel’s bilge. Personnel qualifications and oil transfers procedures are also specified. Another part of this section requires all U.S. vessels of 26 ft or greater to display a placard.
c. TRANSFER OPERATIONS (33 CFR §156): This part deals with oil transfer operations, setting forth requirements for oil transfer, inspection procedures, equipment tests, and supervisory responsibilities.
d. TANK VESSELS (33 CFR §157): These regulations govern the design and operation of seagoing U.S. tank ships and barges of 150 gross tons and over that carry oil in the U.S. domestic trade. These regulations should reduce pollution from tank cleaning and deballasting operations. Copies of these regulations may be obtained from the nearest Government Printing Office or marine supply store. For any questions concerning these regulations contact your nearest Coast Guard Captain of the Port.
GARBAGE DISCHARGE REGULATIONS
As of July 31, 1990, certain U.S. vessels are required to post garbage discharge placards for their crews and passengers. Certain other U.S. vessels are required to develop waste management plans and post garbage discharge placards for their crew and passengers. Placards are required for all manned U.S. vessels 26 feet or more in length. One or more placards must be placed in prominent locations and in sufficient numbers so they can be read by the crew and passengers. The placard locations must be readily accessible to the intended reader. Locations may include embarkation points, food service facilities, garbage handling spaces, and common spaces on deck. Coast Guard boarding officers must be satisfied that placards are located in such a manner, and in sufficient quantity, that every crew member and passenger aboard the vessel would have access to a placard. Boarding officers will have an ample supply of placards for public distribution during boardings. Individual mariners and small groups requesting placards may contact the Center for Marine Conservation, 312 Sutter Street, Suite 606, San Francisco, CA 94108, or call (415) 956-7441. A waste management plan and placard are required for all manned, ocean going U.S. vessels greater than 40 feet in length that are engaged in commerce, or equipped with a galley and berthing. The waste management plan must be developed in writing and meet the garbage discharge requirements of Title 33 Code of Federal Regulations subparts 151.51 through 151.77. Any person handling garbage on board the vessel must follow the provisions of the plan. The plan must describe procedures for collecting, processing, storing, and discharging garbage. The plan must designate the person who is in charge of carrying out the plan. The following is an example of a waste management plan for a vessel operating inside of three nautical miles from shore: "Solid waste management procedures. All garbage generated on the vessel is put in a garbage bag and disposed of in a trash container located at the port of call (or given to a tender vessel to take to shore for disposal). All crewmembers are to be oriented to the requirements of MARPOL Annex V by the captain. All new crewmembers will be specifically shown the garbage discharge placard and told to keep all refuse stowed on board. Passenger orientation to the vessel should include being shown the location of the trash receptacle, mention of refuse discharge regulations, and the name of the person charged with the Law Enforcement 89 of 111 Chapter X responsibility for carrying out the plan." Vessels operating beyond three nautical miles from shore must develop a plan that meets the requirements of MARPOL 73/78 Annex V, Garbage Discharge Restrictions. DISPOSAL OF PLASTICS AND OTHER GARBAGE IN U.S. WATERS New Federal regulations controlling disposal of garbage from vessels prohibit the discharge of plastic garbage anywhere in the marine environment. Plastic includes, but is not limited to: Plastic bags, Styrofoam, cups and lids, six pack holders, bottles, caps, buckets, shoes, milk jugs, egg cartons, stirrers, straws, synthetic fishing nets, ropes, lines, and "bio- or photo-degradable" plastics. These regulations also restrict the disposal of other types of garbage within specified distances from shore.
DEFINITIONS OF ADDITIONAL TYPES OF WASTE
a. GARBAGE - all kinds of food, cargo, and maintenance waste, ashes or clinkers, and domestic waste (generated in living spaces aboard the vessel -- what we normally call trash). "Garbage" does not include fresh fish or fish parts, dishwater, and gray-water.
b. DISHWATER - the liquid residue from the manual or automatic washing of dishes and cooking utensils which have been pre-cleaned to the extent that any food particles adhering to them would not normally interfere with the operation of automatic dishwashers.
c. DUNNAGE - cargo associated waste.
d. GRAYWATER - drainage from a dishwasher, shower, laundry, bath, or washbowl and does not include drainage from toilets, urinals, hospitals, and cargo spaces. All U.S. vessels, wherever they operate, and foreign vessels operating in U.S. waters out to and including the Exclusive Economic Zone (200 miles) must comply with Annex V of MARPOL 73/78.
Friday, February 27, 2009
Small Boat Vessel Safety Checklist (VCS)
VESSEL SAFETY CHECKS (VSC)
To determine if your recreational motorboat or sailboat meets Federal and State requirements, as well as recommended safety standards, contact the Coast Guard Auxiliary for a free Vessel Safety Check. Small commercial fishing vessels and vessels carrying six or fewer passengers for hire are also eligible for VSCs. A decal is awarded to boats that pass the examination. If your boat does not have the proper equipment, NO REPORT IS MADE TO ANY LAW ENFORCEMENT AUTHORITY. The Auxiliary examiner will advise you of the deficiencies so that you can correct them.
A vessel must meet the following Coast Guard Auxiliary standards for award of the VSC decal:
1. Numbering: The boat's registration number must be permanently attached to each side of the forward half of the boat. They must be plane, vertical, block characters, not less than three (3) inches high, and in a color contrasting with the background. A space or hyphen must separate the letters from the numbers. Place State tax stickers according to your state policy.
2. Registration / Document: Papers must be on board and agree with the Hull Identification (HIN) or Documentation Number. On documented pleasure vessels the hailing port, including city and state abbreviation, of not less than 4 inches in height must be on some clearly visible exterior part of the hull.
3. Personal Flotation Devices: PFDs shall be Coast Guard Approved, in good and serviceable condition, and of suitable size for the wearer. Boats less than 16 feet in length must be equipped with one wearable PFD for each person on board. Boats 16 feet and over must be equipped with one wearable PFD for each person plus one throwable.
4. Visual Distress Signals (VDS): All recreational boats used on coastal waters, Great Lakes, or the high seas, are required to carry Coast Guard Approved VDS. Vessel Safety Checks exceed the Federal Regulations by requiring vessels operating on inland waters to have a carry a suitable day and night VDS.
5. Fire Extinguishers: Vessel Safety Checks exceed the Federal Regulations by requiring that all vessels carry a minimum of one B-1 fire extinguisher.
6. Ventilation: Requirements are the same as the Federal Regulations.
7. Backfire Flame Arrestor: Vessel Safety Checks exceed the Federal Regulations by requiring all gasoline inboard and I/O motorboats, regardless of date of construction or engine installation, be equipped with a Coast Guard approved means of backfire flame control.
8. Sound Producing Devices: For compliance with "Navigation Rules" and for distress signaling purposes, all boats must carry some type of sound producing device capable of a 4 second blast audible for a half mile.
9. Navigation Lights: Vessels less than 16 feet in length are not required to have navigation lights. However, if the boat is equipped with them, they must be properly located and displayed.
10. Pollution Placards (Oily Waste Discharge): Vessels over 26 feet must display a placard, at least 5 by 8 inches, in a conspicuous place in the machinery spaces, or at the bilge pump control station.
11. MARPOL Trash Placard (Garbage Dumping Restrictions): United States vessels of 26 feet or longer must display in a prominent location, a durable placard at least 4 by 9 inches notifying the crew and passengers of the discharge restrictions.
12. Marine Sanitation Devises (MSDs): Recreational boats with installed toilet facilities must have an operable MSD. Vessels 65 feet and under must have either a type I, II, or III MSD and vessels over 65 feet must have either a type II or III MSD.
13. Navigation Rules: A current copy of the Navigation Rules (COMDTINST M16672.2D) must be carried onboard any vessel 39.4 feet and over.
14. State Requirements: State equipment requirements that pertain to basic safety and exceed standard VSC requirements will be also be checked by the Auxiliary vessel examiner and must be met before a VSC decal can be awarded.
15. General Condition: Also known as "seaworthiness". The boat must be free from fire hazards, in good overall condition with the bilges reasonably clean and the visible hull and structure generally sound. The maximum passenger capacity and horsepower must not be exceeded.
Other Checks:
a. Galley Equipment: Appliances and their fuel tanks must be properly secured, and the system must not leak. There must be no flammable material in the vicinity of stoves or heaters. Adequate ventilation must be provided for appliances and their fuel supply. Appliance fuel shut off valves must be readily accessible. Only common appliance fuel may be used on vessels. Gasoline, naphtha, and benzene are not allowed due to their highly volatile nature.
b. Electrical: Wiring must be in good condition and properly installed. No exposed areas or deteriorated insulation is permitted. The electrical system must be protected by fuses or manual resetting circuit breakers. Switches and fuse panels must be protected from rain or spray. Batteries must be secured to prevent movement and the terminals covered to prevent accidental arcing. In addition to the above requirements, the Auxiliary also recommends the following to receive a VSC Decal:
1. Fuel Systems: Portable fuel tanks (7 gallon capacity or less) must be constructed of sturdy non-breakable material and in good condition. Tanks shall be free of excessive corrosion and must not leak. Vents must be capable of being closed and the tank must have a vapor-tight, leak-proof cap. All tanks must be properly secured in the boat to prevent excessive movement. Permanent fuel tanks (over 7 gallon capacity) and fuel lines must be free of excessive corrosion and not leak. Fuel tanks must be secured and grounded. The fuel fill pipe must be tightly fitted to the fill plate and located outside the hull, where any spilled fuel will be directed overboard. A vent terminating outboard of the hull and compartments must lead to each permanent fuel tank.
2. Anchor and Anchor Line: The boat should be equipped with an adequate anchor and a line of suitable size and length for locality.
3. Alternate Propulsion: All boats less than 16 feet in length should carry a second method of propulsion such as a paddle, oar, etc.). If an alternate means of mechanical propulsion is carried, it must use separate fuel and starting source from the main propulsion motor.
4. De-watering Device: All boats should carry at least one effective manual de-watering device. This requirement is in addition to any installed electrical bilge pump that the vessel may have on board. To request a Vessel Safety Check, contact your local Coast Guard Auxiliary.
To determine if your recreational motorboat or sailboat meets Federal and State requirements, as well as recommended safety standards, contact the Coast Guard Auxiliary for a free Vessel Safety Check. Small commercial fishing vessels and vessels carrying six or fewer passengers for hire are also eligible for VSCs. A decal is awarded to boats that pass the examination. If your boat does not have the proper equipment, NO REPORT IS MADE TO ANY LAW ENFORCEMENT AUTHORITY. The Auxiliary examiner will advise you of the deficiencies so that you can correct them.
A vessel must meet the following Coast Guard Auxiliary standards for award of the VSC decal:
1. Numbering: The boat's registration number must be permanently attached to each side of the forward half of the boat. They must be plane, vertical, block characters, not less than three (3) inches high, and in a color contrasting with the background. A space or hyphen must separate the letters from the numbers. Place State tax stickers according to your state policy.
2. Registration / Document: Papers must be on board and agree with the Hull Identification (HIN) or Documentation Number. On documented pleasure vessels the hailing port, including city and state abbreviation, of not less than 4 inches in height must be on some clearly visible exterior part of the hull.
3. Personal Flotation Devices: PFDs shall be Coast Guard Approved, in good and serviceable condition, and of suitable size for the wearer. Boats less than 16 feet in length must be equipped with one wearable PFD for each person on board. Boats 16 feet and over must be equipped with one wearable PFD for each person plus one throwable.
4. Visual Distress Signals (VDS): All recreational boats used on coastal waters, Great Lakes, or the high seas, are required to carry Coast Guard Approved VDS. Vessel Safety Checks exceed the Federal Regulations by requiring vessels operating on inland waters to have a carry a suitable day and night VDS.
5. Fire Extinguishers: Vessel Safety Checks exceed the Federal Regulations by requiring that all vessels carry a minimum of one B-1 fire extinguisher.
6. Ventilation: Requirements are the same as the Federal Regulations.
7. Backfire Flame Arrestor: Vessel Safety Checks exceed the Federal Regulations by requiring all gasoline inboard and I/O motorboats, regardless of date of construction or engine installation, be equipped with a Coast Guard approved means of backfire flame control.
8. Sound Producing Devices: For compliance with "Navigation Rules" and for distress signaling purposes, all boats must carry some type of sound producing device capable of a 4 second blast audible for a half mile.
9. Navigation Lights: Vessels less than 16 feet in length are not required to have navigation lights. However, if the boat is equipped with them, they must be properly located and displayed.
10. Pollution Placards (Oily Waste Discharge): Vessels over 26 feet must display a placard, at least 5 by 8 inches, in a conspicuous place in the machinery spaces, or at the bilge pump control station.
11. MARPOL Trash Placard (Garbage Dumping Restrictions): United States vessels of 26 feet or longer must display in a prominent location, a durable placard at least 4 by 9 inches notifying the crew and passengers of the discharge restrictions.
12. Marine Sanitation Devises (MSDs): Recreational boats with installed toilet facilities must have an operable MSD. Vessels 65 feet and under must have either a type I, II, or III MSD and vessels over 65 feet must have either a type II or III MSD.
13. Navigation Rules: A current copy of the Navigation Rules (COMDTINST M16672.2D) must be carried onboard any vessel 39.4 feet and over.
14. State Requirements: State equipment requirements that pertain to basic safety and exceed standard VSC requirements will be also be checked by the Auxiliary vessel examiner and must be met before a VSC decal can be awarded.
15. General Condition: Also known as "seaworthiness". The boat must be free from fire hazards, in good overall condition with the bilges reasonably clean and the visible hull and structure generally sound. The maximum passenger capacity and horsepower must not be exceeded.
Other Checks:
a. Galley Equipment: Appliances and their fuel tanks must be properly secured, and the system must not leak. There must be no flammable material in the vicinity of stoves or heaters. Adequate ventilation must be provided for appliances and their fuel supply. Appliance fuel shut off valves must be readily accessible. Only common appliance fuel may be used on vessels. Gasoline, naphtha, and benzene are not allowed due to their highly volatile nature.
b. Electrical: Wiring must be in good condition and properly installed. No exposed areas or deteriorated insulation is permitted. The electrical system must be protected by fuses or manual resetting circuit breakers. Switches and fuse panels must be protected from rain or spray. Batteries must be secured to prevent movement and the terminals covered to prevent accidental arcing. In addition to the above requirements, the Auxiliary also recommends the following to receive a VSC Decal:
1. Fuel Systems: Portable fuel tanks (7 gallon capacity or less) must be constructed of sturdy non-breakable material and in good condition. Tanks shall be free of excessive corrosion and must not leak. Vents must be capable of being closed and the tank must have a vapor-tight, leak-proof cap. All tanks must be properly secured in the boat to prevent excessive movement. Permanent fuel tanks (over 7 gallon capacity) and fuel lines must be free of excessive corrosion and not leak. Fuel tanks must be secured and grounded. The fuel fill pipe must be tightly fitted to the fill plate and located outside the hull, where any spilled fuel will be directed overboard. A vent terminating outboard of the hull and compartments must lead to each permanent fuel tank.
2. Anchor and Anchor Line: The boat should be equipped with an adequate anchor and a line of suitable size and length for locality.
3. Alternate Propulsion: All boats less than 16 feet in length should carry a second method of propulsion such as a paddle, oar, etc.). If an alternate means of mechanical propulsion is carried, it must use separate fuel and starting source from the main propulsion motor.
4. De-watering Device: All boats should carry at least one effective manual de-watering device. This requirement is in addition to any installed electrical bilge pump that the vessel may have on board. To request a Vessel Safety Check, contact your local Coast Guard Auxiliary.
Saturday, February 21, 2009
Weather for the Small Boat
You should never leave the dock without first checking the local weather forecast. You can get the weather information from the TV, radio, local newspaper, on-line, or from one of the weather channels on your VHF radio. At certain times of the year weather can change rapidly and you should continually keep a "weather eye" out. While you are out in a boat here are a few signs you can look for that indicate an approaching weather change:
1. Weather changes generally come from the west. Scan the sky with your weather eye, especially to the west.
2. Watch for clouds to build up, especially rapid vertically rising clouds.
3. Sudden drop in temperature.
4. Sudden change in wind direction and or speed.
5. If you have a barometer on your boat, check it every 2 to 3 hours. A rising barometer indicates fair weather and rise in wind velocity, a falling barometer indicates stormy or rainy weather.
What To Do in Severe Weather
1. Reduce speed, but keep just enough power to maintain headway.
2. Put on your PFDs.
3. Turn on running lights.
4. Head for nearest shore that is safe to approach, if possible.
5. Head bow of boat into the waves at about a 45 degree angle.
6. Keep bilges free of water.
7. Seat passengers on bottom of boat near centerline.
8. If your engine fails, trail a sea anchor on a line from the bow to keep the boat headed into the waves. A bucket will work as a sea anchor in an emergency.
9. Anchor the boat if necessary.
1. Weather changes generally come from the west. Scan the sky with your weather eye, especially to the west.
2. Watch for clouds to build up, especially rapid vertically rising clouds.
3. Sudden drop in temperature.
4. Sudden change in wind direction and or speed.
5. If you have a barometer on your boat, check it every 2 to 3 hours. A rising barometer indicates fair weather and rise in wind velocity, a falling barometer indicates stormy or rainy weather.
What To Do in Severe Weather
1. Reduce speed, but keep just enough power to maintain headway.
2. Put on your PFDs.
3. Turn on running lights.
4. Head for nearest shore that is safe to approach, if possible.
5. Head bow of boat into the waves at about a 45 degree angle.
6. Keep bilges free of water.
7. Seat passengers on bottom of boat near centerline.
8. If your engine fails, trail a sea anchor on a line from the bow to keep the boat headed into the waves. A bucket will work as a sea anchor in an emergency.
9. Anchor the boat if necessary.
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Fueling Small Boats
Fueling
Most fires and explosions happen during or after fueling. To prevent an accident, follow these rules:
1. Portable tanks should be refueled ashore.
2. Close all hatches and other openings before fueling.
3. Extinguish all smoking materials.
4. Turn off engines, all electrical equipment, radios, stoves and other appliances.
5. Remove all passengers.
6. Keep the fill nozzle in contact with the tank and wipe up any spilled fuel.
7. Open all ports, hatches and doors to ventilate.
8. Run the blower for at least four minutes.
9. Check the bilges for fuel vapors before starting the engine.
10. Do the "sniff test". Sniff around to make sure there is no odor of gasoline anywhere in the boat. Do not start the engine until all traces of fuel vapors are eliminated.
Fuel Management
Practice the "One-Third Rule" by using:
1. One-third of the fuel going out
2. One-third to get back and
3. One-third in reserve
Most fires and explosions happen during or after fueling. To prevent an accident, follow these rules:
1. Portable tanks should be refueled ashore.
2. Close all hatches and other openings before fueling.
3. Extinguish all smoking materials.
4. Turn off engines, all electrical equipment, radios, stoves and other appliances.
5. Remove all passengers.
6. Keep the fill nozzle in contact with the tank and wipe up any spilled fuel.
7. Open all ports, hatches and doors to ventilate.
8. Run the blower for at least four minutes.
9. Check the bilges for fuel vapors before starting the engine.
10. Do the "sniff test". Sniff around to make sure there is no odor of gasoline anywhere in the boat. Do not start the engine until all traces of fuel vapors are eliminated.
Fuel Management
Practice the "One-Third Rule" by using:
1. One-third of the fuel going out
2. One-third to get back and
3. One-third in reserve
Friday, February 13, 2009
Anchoring your Small Boat
Anchoring is done for two principal reasons: first, to stop for fishing, swimming, lunch, or an overnight stay and secondly, to keep you from running aground in bad weather or as a result of engine failure. Anchoring can be a simple task if you follow some guide lines:
1. Make sure you have the proper type of anchor (danforth,plow,mushroom).
2. A three to six foot length of galvanized chain should be attached to the anchor. The chain will stand up to the abrasion of sand, rock or mud on the bottom much better than a fiber line.
3. A suitable length of nylon anchor line should be attached to the end of the chain (this combination is called the "Rode". The nylon will stretch under heavy strain cushioning the impact of the waves or wind on the boat and the anchor.
4. Select an area that offers maximum shelter from wind, current and boat traffic.
5. Determine depth of water and type of bottom (preferably sand or mud).
6. Calculate the amount of anchor line you will need. General rule: 5 to 7 times as much anchor line as the depth of water plus the distance from the water to where the anchor will attach to the bow. For example, if the water depth is 8 feet and it is 2 feet from the top of water to your bow cleat, you would multiply 10 feet by 5 to 7 to get the amount of anchor line to put out
7. Secure the anchor line to the bow cleat at the point you want it to stop.
8. Bring the bow of the vessel into the wind or current.
9. When you get to the spot you want to anchor, place the engine in neutral.
10. When the boat comes to a stop, slowly lower the anchor. Do not throw the anchor over as it tends to entangle the anchor line.
11. When all anchor line has been let out, back down on the anchor with engine in idle reverse to help set the anchor.
12. When anchor is firmly set, use reference points (landmarks) in relation to the boat to make sure you are not drifting. Check these points frequently. Do not anchor by the Stern. Anchoring a small boat by the stern has caused many to quickly capsize and sink. The transom is usually squared off and has less freeboard than the bow. In a current, the force of the water can pull the stern under. The boat is also vulnerable to swamping by wave action. The weight of a motor, fuel tank, or other gear in the stern increases the risk.
1. Make sure you have the proper type of anchor (danforth,plow,mushroom).
2. A three to six foot length of galvanized chain should be attached to the anchor. The chain will stand up to the abrasion of sand, rock or mud on the bottom much better than a fiber line.
3. A suitable length of nylon anchor line should be attached to the end of the chain (this combination is called the "Rode". The nylon will stretch under heavy strain cushioning the impact of the waves or wind on the boat and the anchor.
4. Select an area that offers maximum shelter from wind, current and boat traffic.
5. Determine depth of water and type of bottom (preferably sand or mud).
6. Calculate the amount of anchor line you will need. General rule: 5 to 7 times as much anchor line as the depth of water plus the distance from the water to where the anchor will attach to the bow. For example, if the water depth is 8 feet and it is 2 feet from the top of water to your bow cleat, you would multiply 10 feet by 5 to 7 to get the amount of anchor line to put out
7. Secure the anchor line to the bow cleat at the point you want it to stop.
8. Bring the bow of the vessel into the wind or current.
9. When you get to the spot you want to anchor, place the engine in neutral.
10. When the boat comes to a stop, slowly lower the anchor. Do not throw the anchor over as it tends to entangle the anchor line.
11. When all anchor line has been let out, back down on the anchor with engine in idle reverse to help set the anchor.
12. When anchor is firmly set, use reference points (landmarks) in relation to the boat to make sure you are not drifting. Check these points frequently. Do not anchor by the Stern. Anchoring a small boat by the stern has caused many to quickly capsize and sink. The transom is usually squared off and has less freeboard than the bow. In a current, the force of the water can pull the stern under. The boat is also vulnerable to swamping by wave action. The weight of a motor, fuel tank, or other gear in the stern increases the risk.
Friday, January 23, 2009
Boating
As the operator and or owner of a vessel you are responsible not only for the prudent and safe operation of your boat, but also for the lives and safety of your passengers and others around you. Become familiar with Federal, State, and local rules and regulations regarding safe boat operation and try to learn all aspects of good seamanship such as boat handling, navigation and piloting, weather, communications.
OPERATOR'S RESPONSIBILITIES
Your water fun depends on you, your equipment and other people who, like yourself, enjoy spending leisure time on, in or near the water. Let's take a look at your responsibilities:
1. File a float plan with a relative or friend.
2. Make sure the boat is in top operating condition and that there are no tripping hazards. The boat should be free of fire hazards and have clean bilges.
3. Safety equipment, required by law, is on board, maintained in good condition, and you know how to properly use these devices.
4. Have a complete knowledge of the operation and handling characteristics of your boat.
5. Know your position and know where you are going.
6. Maintain a safe speed and proper lookout at all times to avoid collision.
7. Keep an eye out for changing weather conditions, and act accordingly.
8. Know and practice the Rules of the Road (Navigational Rules).
9. Know and obey Federal and state regulations and waterway markers.
10. Maintain a clear, unobstructed view forward at all times. "Scan" the water back and forth, avoid "tunnel" vision.
Most boating collisions are caused by inattention. You are the key to water safety.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT BOAT
In the U.S. there are more than 2,500 boat manufacturers that produce more than 4,000 different boat models which are powered by a variety of outboard, stern drive, and inboard engines. Because of the great variety, choosing the right boat can be confusing, but the right choice is an important step in enjoying the nations waterways. In selecting the right boat for your needs, consider the type of activity for which you plan to use it, such as water skiing, fishing, cruising, or weekend outings. You need to consider the type of water on which it will be used, such as lakes, rivers, open ocean, or the Great Lakes. The boat should be large enough to handle the number of people on a normal outing.
LOADING YOUR BOAT
Never overload your boat with passengers and cargo beyond its safe carrying capacity. Too many people and/or gear will cause the boat to become unstable. Always balance the load so that the boat maintains proper trim. Here are some things to remember when loading your boat:
1. Distribute the load evenly fore and aft and from side to side.
2. Keep the load low.
3. Keep passengers seated (Do not stand up in a small boat).
4. Fasten gear to prevent shifting.
5. Do not exceed the "U.S. Coast Guard Maximum Capacities" information label (called the Capacity plate).
6. If there is no Capacity Plate, use the following chart as a guide to determine the maximum number of persons you can safely carry in calm weather. The chart is applicable only to mono-hull boats less than 20ft in length. A mono-hull is a boat, which makes a single "footprint" in the water when loaded to its rated capacity. For example, a catamaran, trimaran, or a pontoon boat is not a mono-hull boat. Many hunters and anglers do not think of themselves as boaters, but use small semi-v hull vessels, flat bottom jonboats or canoes to pursue their sports. These boats tend to be unstable and easily capsize. Capsizings, sinkings, and falls overboard from small boats account for about 70% of boating fatalities and these facts mean you must have a greater awareness of the boat's limitations and the skill and knowledge to overcome them. Standing in a small boat raises the center of gravity, often to the point of capsizing. Standing for any reason or even changing position in a small boat can be dangerous, as is sitting on the gunwales or seat backs or on a pedestal seat while underway. A wave or sudden turn may cause a fall overboard or capsizing because of the raised center of gravity.
ANCHORING
Anchoring is done for two principal reasons: first, to stop for fishing, swimming, lunch, or an overnight stay and secondly, to keep you from running aground in bad weather or as a result of engine failure. Anchoring can be a simple task if you follow these guidelines:
1. Make sure you have the proper type of anchor (danforth/plow/mushroom).
2. A three to six foot length of galvanized chain should be attached to the anchor. The chain will stand up to the abrasion of sand, rock or mud on the bottom much better than a fiber line.
3. A suitable length of nylon anchor line should be attached to the end of the chain (this combination is called the "Rode"). The nylon will stretch under heavy strain cushioning the impact of the waves or wind on the boat and the anchor.
4. Select an area that offers maximum shelter from wind, current and boat traffic.
5. Determine depth of water and type of bottom (preferably sand or mud).
6. Calculate the amount of anchor line you will need. General rule: 5 to 7 times as much anchor line as the depth of water plus the distance from the water to where the anchor will attach to the bow. For example, if the water depth is 8 feet and it is 2 feet from the top of water to your bow cleat, you would multiply 10 feet by 5 to 7 to get the amount of anchor line to put out.
7. Secure the anchor line to the bow cleat at the point you want it to stop.
8. Bring the bow of the vessel into the wind or current.
9. When you get to the spot you want to anchor, place the engine in neutral.
10. When the boat comes to a stop, slowly lower the anchor. Do not throw the anchor over as it tends to entangle the anchor line.
11. When all anchor line has been let out, back down on the anchor with engine in idle reverse to help set the anchor.
12. When anchor is firmly set, use reference points (landmarks) in relation to the boat to make sure you are not drifting. Check these points frequently. Do not anchor by the Stern. Anchoring a small boat by the stern has caused many to quickly capsize and sink. The transom is usually squared off and has less freeboard than the bow. In a current, the force of the water can pull the stern under. The boat is also vulnerable to swamping by wave action. The weight of a motor, fuel tank, or other gear in the stern increases the risk.
FUELING
Most fires and explosions happen during or after fueling. To prevent an accident, follow these rules:
1. Portable tanks should be refueled ashore.
2. Close all hatches and other openings before fueling.
3. Extinguish all smoking materials.
4. Turn off engines, all electrical equipment, radios, stoves and other appliances.
5. Remove all passengers.
6. Keep the fill nozzle in contact with the tank and wipe up any spilled fuel.
7. Open all ports, hatches and doors to ventilate.
8. Run the blower for at least four minutes.
9. Check the bilges for fuel vapors before starting the engine.
10. Do the "sniff test". Sniff around to make sure there is no odor of gasoline anywhere in the boat. Do not start the engine until all traces of fuel vapors are eliminated.
Fuel Management
Practice the "One-Third Rule" by using:
1. One-third of the fuel going out
2. One-third to get back and
3. One-third in reserve
OPERATOR'S RESPONSIBILITIES
Your water fun depends on you, your equipment and other people who, like yourself, enjoy spending leisure time on, in or near the water. Let's take a look at your responsibilities:
1. File a float plan with a relative or friend.
2. Make sure the boat is in top operating condition and that there are no tripping hazards. The boat should be free of fire hazards and have clean bilges.
3. Safety equipment, required by law, is on board, maintained in good condition, and you know how to properly use these devices.
4. Have a complete knowledge of the operation and handling characteristics of your boat.
5. Know your position and know where you are going.
6. Maintain a safe speed and proper lookout at all times to avoid collision.
7. Keep an eye out for changing weather conditions, and act accordingly.
8. Know and practice the Rules of the Road (Navigational Rules).
9. Know and obey Federal and state regulations and waterway markers.
10. Maintain a clear, unobstructed view forward at all times. "Scan" the water back and forth, avoid "tunnel" vision.
Most boating collisions are caused by inattention. You are the key to water safety.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT BOAT
In the U.S. there are more than 2,500 boat manufacturers that produce more than 4,000 different boat models which are powered by a variety of outboard, stern drive, and inboard engines. Because of the great variety, choosing the right boat can be confusing, but the right choice is an important step in enjoying the nations waterways. In selecting the right boat for your needs, consider the type of activity for which you plan to use it, such as water skiing, fishing, cruising, or weekend outings. You need to consider the type of water on which it will be used, such as lakes, rivers, open ocean, or the Great Lakes. The boat should be large enough to handle the number of people on a normal outing.
LOADING YOUR BOAT
Never overload your boat with passengers and cargo beyond its safe carrying capacity. Too many people and/or gear will cause the boat to become unstable. Always balance the load so that the boat maintains proper trim. Here are some things to remember when loading your boat:
1. Distribute the load evenly fore and aft and from side to side.
2. Keep the load low.
3. Keep passengers seated (Do not stand up in a small boat).
4. Fasten gear to prevent shifting.
5. Do not exceed the "U.S. Coast Guard Maximum Capacities" information label (called the Capacity plate).
6. If there is no Capacity Plate, use the following chart as a guide to determine the maximum number of persons you can safely carry in calm weather. The chart is applicable only to mono-hull boats less than 20ft in length. A mono-hull is a boat, which makes a single "footprint" in the water when loaded to its rated capacity. For example, a catamaran, trimaran, or a pontoon boat is not a mono-hull boat. Many hunters and anglers do not think of themselves as boaters, but use small semi-v hull vessels, flat bottom jonboats or canoes to pursue their sports. These boats tend to be unstable and easily capsize. Capsizings, sinkings, and falls overboard from small boats account for about 70% of boating fatalities and these facts mean you must have a greater awareness of the boat's limitations and the skill and knowledge to overcome them. Standing in a small boat raises the center of gravity, often to the point of capsizing. Standing for any reason or even changing position in a small boat can be dangerous, as is sitting on the gunwales or seat backs or on a pedestal seat while underway. A wave or sudden turn may cause a fall overboard or capsizing because of the raised center of gravity.
ANCHORING
Anchoring is done for two principal reasons: first, to stop for fishing, swimming, lunch, or an overnight stay and secondly, to keep you from running aground in bad weather or as a result of engine failure. Anchoring can be a simple task if you follow these guidelines:
1. Make sure you have the proper type of anchor (danforth/plow/mushroom).
2. A three to six foot length of galvanized chain should be attached to the anchor. The chain will stand up to the abrasion of sand, rock or mud on the bottom much better than a fiber line.
3. A suitable length of nylon anchor line should be attached to the end of the chain (this combination is called the "Rode"). The nylon will stretch under heavy strain cushioning the impact of the waves or wind on the boat and the anchor.
4. Select an area that offers maximum shelter from wind, current and boat traffic.
5. Determine depth of water and type of bottom (preferably sand or mud).
6. Calculate the amount of anchor line you will need. General rule: 5 to 7 times as much anchor line as the depth of water plus the distance from the water to where the anchor will attach to the bow. For example, if the water depth is 8 feet and it is 2 feet from the top of water to your bow cleat, you would multiply 10 feet by 5 to 7 to get the amount of anchor line to put out.
7. Secure the anchor line to the bow cleat at the point you want it to stop.
8. Bring the bow of the vessel into the wind or current.
9. When you get to the spot you want to anchor, place the engine in neutral.
10. When the boat comes to a stop, slowly lower the anchor. Do not throw the anchor over as it tends to entangle the anchor line.
11. When all anchor line has been let out, back down on the anchor with engine in idle reverse to help set the anchor.
12. When anchor is firmly set, use reference points (landmarks) in relation to the boat to make sure you are not drifting. Check these points frequently. Do not anchor by the Stern. Anchoring a small boat by the stern has caused many to quickly capsize and sink. The transom is usually squared off and has less freeboard than the bow. In a current, the force of the water can pull the stern under. The boat is also vulnerable to swamping by wave action. The weight of a motor, fuel tank, or other gear in the stern increases the risk.
FUELING
Most fires and explosions happen during or after fueling. To prevent an accident, follow these rules:
1. Portable tanks should be refueled ashore.
2. Close all hatches and other openings before fueling.
3. Extinguish all smoking materials.
4. Turn off engines, all electrical equipment, radios, stoves and other appliances.
5. Remove all passengers.
6. Keep the fill nozzle in contact with the tank and wipe up any spilled fuel.
7. Open all ports, hatches and doors to ventilate.
8. Run the blower for at least four minutes.
9. Check the bilges for fuel vapors before starting the engine.
10. Do the "sniff test". Sniff around to make sure there is no odor of gasoline anywhere in the boat. Do not start the engine until all traces of fuel vapors are eliminated.
Fuel Management
Practice the "One-Third Rule" by using:
1. One-third of the fuel going out
2. One-third to get back and
3. One-third in reserve
Saturday, July 26, 2008
Wooden Cleats for Small Boats
To the yachtsman who likes to make his own fittings, nothing gives more satisfaction than wooden cleats. When properly designed, they are easier on line than their metal counter parts. Having more surface area, resting in more friction, the line is less liable to slip. They have a rugged honest appearance that appeals to all sailors. Most of the cleats that I have seen are made af locust, well seasoned and close grained, and were soaked in hot linseed oil when finished.
The first is an all purpose cleat designed to handle 3/8 or 1/2 inch line. The blank was roughed out on the bandsaw to the dimensions given. The horns were rounded off with a wood rasp, and the neck or throat was hollowed with a rat-tail file. Sandpaper removed all the high spots and gave it the final shape. It was bored to take two 1/4 inch carriage bolts, the heads being slightly countersunk. The second cleat is a jam cleat for 3/8 inch rope, and was designed to handle jibsheets on a small center boarder where speed in handling was of prime importance. The sheet can be led around the wide after end and held in the hand, the cleat acting as a deck block or fairleader. To belay, the hauling part is pulled across under the long horn where it is jammed securely between the horn and the deck. To release, give it a jerk and it is free to run. It is secured to the deck by carriage bolts.
The last item is a shroud cleat to belay flag halyards. In days gone by it would probably have been made of whalebone, but lignum vitae, if obtainable, is the best substitute. It was designed for 3/16 inch wire rigging, which is parceled with friction tape and served with marline for a length of 4 inches, to which the cleat is seized. After the blank is roughed out it is finished with a file, shallow grooves are cut to receive the seizings, and the base is hollowed out with a rat-tail file to fit the served shroud. The cleat is mounted breast high on the after side of the shroud and secured by three seizings of tarred yacht marline, drawn up as tightly as possible and then given three coats of spar varnish.
Regardless of whether you varnish or paint them, wooden cleats should first be soaked a long time in hot linseed oil until the wood is saturated. This prevents any tendency to check, and seems to harden the wood considerably. You should allow at least three days for the oil to harden before varnishing.
Regardless of whether you varnish or paint them, wooden cleats should first be soaked a long time in hot linseed oil until the wood is saturated. This prevents any tendency to check, and seems to harden the wood considerably. You should allow at least three days for the oil to harden before varnishing.
Thursday, July 24, 2008
The Wooden Bilge Pump
After two days and nights of easterly gales and torrential rains, the morning dawned with clearing skies and the meadows sparkled in the welcome sunshine as I walked down the path to the creek to see how the boat had fared. It was the sort of morning that made a boy glad to be alive and anxious to be up and doing. I found my rowboat half full of rainwater, and then it dawned on me that I had didn't have a bailer. As I debated the question of whether to go back to the house for a bailer I heard a familiar homely sound. In the doorway of his shanty, his ancient straw hat cocked over one eye, sat "Uncle" Bob, as I called him.
I asked if I might borrow a bailer. He reached inside and handed out a battered old wooden affair, the likes of which I had never seen before. It was made of half inch cedar, about 4 feet long and 4 inches square. As I pulled out the plunger to see how it was constructed Bob said, "Never seen one of them before, did you? Lots of them around when I was a boy. They don't make no noise, 'n they don't chew up the plankin' like them tin ones do." As an after thought he added, "Don't cost nothin' neither."
The construction of the pump was simplicity itself. The plunger consisted of a 3 inch square of sole leather tacked to a 2 inch square block of wood, with a 1 inch oak handle. The valve was a plug of wood in the bottom of the pump, with a 2 inch hole in it covered by a leather flap tacked over it.
The pump raised an enormous stream of water, and after a lifetime familiarity with all sorts of metal pumps I was struck by its quietness. There was none of the screeching, scraping, rusty clatter I had always known, and for the first time in my life I enjoyed pumping. All the while there was a faint stirring in the dark corners of my mind, something clamoring for remembrance. Ah yes, Standing on a dock long long years ago, looking down on a big oyster sloop, just docked after dumping a load of "seed". An old man in a derby hat working a pump just aft of the hatches a square, wooden, built-in well from which there gushed a flood of foamy water, fanning across the deck and streaming through the scuppers in the rails.
It was probably the same kind of pump I had borrowed, and a type known to man for hundreds of years, but to me it was an exciting discovery. In the belief that there are others who take a curious interest in such simple things, I have felt justified in devoting this space to its story.
Last summer I met up with a second wooden bilge pump, a different type and rather unique. My good friend of mine had invited me aboard his venerable catboat. He is inordinately proud of his boat, and well might he be, for it falls to the lot of very few boats to have the loving care of a sailor such as he. During the my visit he proudly pointed out that she had two built-in wooden bilge pumps, one on either side of her centerboard trunk, discharging onto the floor of her self bailing cockpit.
The plunger is a very curious affair. A piece of oak, 1 by 3, has a shoulder cut in its lower end on which is tacked a pure gum rubber flapper 1/4 inch thick. To prevent its collapsing on the upstroke two bronze dowels or pins are fixed in the oak immediately beneath the rubber flapper. The wood is reduced to a round section above to form a handle. A pretty neat affair, I say. On reflection I will have to admit that wooden pumps are about as elementary and rude as man could devise, but like many other simple handmade tools of ancient origin they work beautifully. And as Uncle Bob said, "They don't cost nothin' neither." What more could one ask?
I asked if I might borrow a bailer. He reached inside and handed out a battered old wooden affair, the likes of which I had never seen before. It was made of half inch cedar, about 4 feet long and 4 inches square. As I pulled out the plunger to see how it was constructed Bob said, "Never seen one of them before, did you? Lots of them around when I was a boy. They don't make no noise, 'n they don't chew up the plankin' like them tin ones do." As an after thought he added, "Don't cost nothin' neither."
The construction of the pump was simplicity itself. The plunger consisted of a 3 inch square of sole leather tacked to a 2 inch square block of wood, with a 1 inch oak handle. The valve was a plug of wood in the bottom of the pump, with a 2 inch hole in it covered by a leather flap tacked over it.
The pump raised an enormous stream of water, and after a lifetime familiarity with all sorts of metal pumps I was struck by its quietness. There was none of the screeching, scraping, rusty clatter I had always known, and for the first time in my life I enjoyed pumping. All the while there was a faint stirring in the dark corners of my mind, something clamoring for remembrance. Ah yes, Standing on a dock long long years ago, looking down on a big oyster sloop, just docked after dumping a load of "seed". An old man in a derby hat working a pump just aft of the hatches a square, wooden, built-in well from which there gushed a flood of foamy water, fanning across the deck and streaming through the scuppers in the rails.
It was probably the same kind of pump I had borrowed, and a type known to man for hundreds of years, but to me it was an exciting discovery. In the belief that there are others who take a curious interest in such simple things, I have felt justified in devoting this space to its story.
Last summer I met up with a second wooden bilge pump, a different type and rather unique. My good friend of mine had invited me aboard his venerable catboat. He is inordinately proud of his boat, and well might he be, for it falls to the lot of very few boats to have the loving care of a sailor such as he. During the my visit he proudly pointed out that she had two built-in wooden bilge pumps, one on either side of her centerboard trunk, discharging onto the floor of her self bailing cockpit.
The plunger is a very curious affair. A piece of oak, 1 by 3, has a shoulder cut in its lower end on which is tacked a pure gum rubber flapper 1/4 inch thick. To prevent its collapsing on the upstroke two bronze dowels or pins are fixed in the oak immediately beneath the rubber flapper. The wood is reduced to a round section above to form a handle. A pretty neat affair, I say. On reflection I will have to admit that wooden pumps are about as elementary and rude as man could devise, but like many other simple handmade tools of ancient origin they work beautifully. And as Uncle Bob said, "They don't cost nothin' neither." What more could one ask?
Friday, June 27, 2008
Prepare Your Boat For High Winds
This is the start of the hurricane season for boaters. You should be prepared well before the hurricane season begins, and know what to do in the event a storm makes landfall.
Get a plan in place early to make preparing your boat as efficient and quick as possible when a hurricane watch is issued .
Purchase items needed for a storm preparation kit.
Check your cleats for adequate strength, replace weak back plates and bolts with aluminum back plates and stainless steel bolts.
Make a checklist and keep it handy. If the time comes to implement your plan, you will be less likely to forget something important.
Take an inventory, preferably by video or camera of the interior, exterior, and the items in your boat. Keep it in a safe place in case you need to file an insurance claim.
Find a sheltered "anchorage" if you plan to anchor your boat out, and make a plan to get there quickly and safely.
Get a plan in place early to make preparing your boat as efficient and quick as possible when a hurricane watch is issued .
Purchase items needed for a storm preparation kit.
Check your cleats for adequate strength, replace weak back plates and bolts with aluminum back plates and stainless steel bolts.
Make a checklist and keep it handy. If the time comes to implement your plan, you will be less likely to forget something important.
Take an inventory, preferably by video or camera of the interior, exterior, and the items in your boat. Keep it in a safe place in case you need to file an insurance claim.
Find a sheltered "anchorage" if you plan to anchor your boat out, and make a plan to get there quickly and safely.
Before hurricane season begins, make a plan that includes purchasing items that will help you prep your boat quickly and efficiently. Here are a few basics suggestions for your boat’s preparation kit:
1. Duct tape
2. Plastic
3. Rags
4. Plywood
5. Trash bags to easily remove items from your boat
2. Plastic
3. Rags
4. Plywood
5. Trash bags to easily remove items from your boat
Add these items to the items for all boats if your boat is moored:
Extra mooring lines a 1/4” to double the size of your normal line. Purchase new line and store outside of the marine environment to ensure the integrity of the line. Use this line for storm preparation only.
Chafing gear made of garden or fire hose, leather, or other reinforced plastic.
Extra fenders or old tires
Extra line, tie straps, or bungy cords to lash loose items down
Extra mooring lines a 1/4” to double the size of your normal line. Purchase new line and store outside of the marine environment to ensure the integrity of the line. Use this line for storm preparation only.
Chafing gear made of garden or fire hose, leather, or other reinforced plastic.
Extra fenders or old tires
Extra line, tie straps, or bungy cords to lash loose items down
Add these items to the items for all boats if your boat is trailered:
Blocks for your boat trailer
Tie straps or heavy rope to tie your boat to the trailer
Grounds hooks or steel rebar and chains or tie straps to anchor your trailer to the ground
Blocks for your boat trailer
Tie straps or heavy rope to tie your boat to the trailer
Grounds hooks or steel rebar and chains or tie straps to anchor your trailer to the ground
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Pre-deparure Check List for Small Boats
Personal Flotation Devices (PFDs)
Have at least one Coast Guard-approved device per passenger and a minimum of two on board.
An additional throwable device is required if the vessel is more than 16 feet long.
Explain the location and use of all PFDs to passengers and crew that may be new to the vessel.
Sound Producing Devices
Have a horn capable of producing a four-second blast audible for at least 1/2 mile on board.
if you use portable air horn, have a spare can of air or an alternate device.
Attach a whistle to each PFD.
Lights and Shapes
Have all navigation lights as required for your boat.
Make sure all instrument lights are working.
If you intend to engage in a recreational boating activity that requires a day-shape, have the required shapes.
Have aboard a flashlight and spare batteries.
Distress Signals
Make flares, day signals, etc., accessible and ensure they are stored in a dry location.
Carry signals at all times even if not required by the Coast Guard.
Inform the crew and passengers of their location and safety rules for proper usage.
Tools and Spares
Carry a basic toolbox with tools appropriate for your boat.
Carry a box of spares including fuel filter, light bulbs, head parts, through-hull plugs, etc.
Fuel and Oil
Top off your fuel tanks.
If you can't, have enough fuel to provide a reasonable margin of safety for your return.
Check the engine oil and coolant levels.
Fire Extinguishers
Carry at least one fire extinguisher and make sure it is accessible. Make sure you have at least the number required by Coast Guard rules.
Check to be sure mounts are secure and functional before departure.
Take the time to point out locations to passengers and crew.
Ventilation
On any powered vessel or auxiliary powered sailboat, or vessels using LPG for cooking or heat, check that all interior spaces are well ventilated before departure.
If fuel smells are detected before ventilating, check after running the blowers for several minutes before starting.
If odor persists, shut down the engine and look for the source of the leak.
Bilges
Check to be sure bilges are reasonably dry and that pumps are not running excessively.
Clean up any spilled oil or waste in bilges to prevent overboard discharge.
Weather Forecast
Always check the weather forecast before boating.
Have a radio on board to receive weather updates.
Battery Care
If you have a dual charging system, make sure the selector switch in the proper position.
Make sure the power is on to the entire vessel.
Have aboard spare batteries for accessories such as your handheld radio, flashlight, portable navigational aid, etc.
If the batteries are rechargeable, make sure they're charged.
Docking and Anchoring Tips
Have at least one anchor set up and bent-on to your anchor line.
Carry two or three extra dock lines in case you encounter unusual conditions dockside.
Visually inspect the lines you use for chafe or wear.
Carry at least two fenders on-board for docking or towing if required.
Rules & Documentation
Have the ship's papers, radio license, fishing permit, etc. on board.
Have the chart or charts for the area you intend to cruise in, regardless of your level of local knowledge.
Have at least one Coast Guard-approved device per passenger and a minimum of two on board.
An additional throwable device is required if the vessel is more than 16 feet long.
Explain the location and use of all PFDs to passengers and crew that may be new to the vessel.
Sound Producing Devices
Have a horn capable of producing a four-second blast audible for at least 1/2 mile on board.
if you use portable air horn, have a spare can of air or an alternate device.
Attach a whistle to each PFD.
Lights and Shapes
Have all navigation lights as required for your boat.
Make sure all instrument lights are working.
If you intend to engage in a recreational boating activity that requires a day-shape, have the required shapes.
Have aboard a flashlight and spare batteries.
Distress Signals
Make flares, day signals, etc., accessible and ensure they are stored in a dry location.
Carry signals at all times even if not required by the Coast Guard.
Inform the crew and passengers of their location and safety rules for proper usage.
Tools and Spares
Carry a basic toolbox with tools appropriate for your boat.
Carry a box of spares including fuel filter, light bulbs, head parts, through-hull plugs, etc.
Fuel and Oil
Top off your fuel tanks.
If you can't, have enough fuel to provide a reasonable margin of safety for your return.
Check the engine oil and coolant levels.
Fire Extinguishers
Carry at least one fire extinguisher and make sure it is accessible. Make sure you have at least the number required by Coast Guard rules.
Check to be sure mounts are secure and functional before departure.
Take the time to point out locations to passengers and crew.
Ventilation
On any powered vessel or auxiliary powered sailboat, or vessels using LPG for cooking or heat, check that all interior spaces are well ventilated before departure.
If fuel smells are detected before ventilating, check after running the blowers for several minutes before starting.
If odor persists, shut down the engine and look for the source of the leak.
Bilges
Check to be sure bilges are reasonably dry and that pumps are not running excessively.
Clean up any spilled oil or waste in bilges to prevent overboard discharge.
Weather Forecast
Always check the weather forecast before boating.
Have a radio on board to receive weather updates.
Battery Care
If you have a dual charging system, make sure the selector switch in the proper position.
Make sure the power is on to the entire vessel.
Have aboard spare batteries for accessories such as your handheld radio, flashlight, portable navigational aid, etc.
If the batteries are rechargeable, make sure they're charged.
Docking and Anchoring Tips
Have at least one anchor set up and bent-on to your anchor line.
Carry two or three extra dock lines in case you encounter unusual conditions dockside.
Visually inspect the lines you use for chafe or wear.
Carry at least two fenders on-board for docking or towing if required.
Rules & Documentation
Have the ship's papers, radio license, fishing permit, etc. on board.
Have the chart or charts for the area you intend to cruise in, regardless of your level of local knowledge.
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
Propeller Facts
Any given prop's size is described by two numbers. A propeller that is sized 20" x 24". The first number in this case, 20 represents the diameter of the propeller. Diameter is a critical dimension when converting engine horsepower to thrust.
The larger the diameter of the prop, the larger the column of water in which it's working. To calculate the correct diameter of any prop, measure the distance from the center of the propeller to the tip of one of the blades, and then multiply by two.
The second number (24 represents the pitch. Pitch is the distance the propeller moves through the water with each complete revolution. There is a certain amount of slippage between the prop and the water, so the distance actually traveled will be less than the distance.
Propellers come with 2, 3, 4 or 5 blade configurations. Having enough blade area is an important factor in transferring horsepower to thrust. Too little blade area causes high blade loading, making the prop incapable of using all the available power from the engine. This leads to cavitation, vibration and even pitting of the prop. To much blade area puts excessive load on the engine and does not allow it to produce its maximum hp.
Using a four-blade prop instead of a three-blade prop has several advantages. Your boat will accelerate and come up on plane faster, and stay on plane at lower rpm's. You experience less vibration with a four-blade prop. You will also have an increase in speed at mid-range rpm's, but there will be less speed at wide open throttle.
Cupped propellers - Have an extra curve on the trailing edge of their blades, which enables the prop to cut through water better. A properly cupped propeller should give your boat a higher top speed or allow you to go faster at the same rpm's.
The four most common materials with which propellers are made are:
Composite - Very durable and some models allow you to replace a single damaged blade instead of the entire prop. they do have more flex in them than a metal prop, so they lose some performance.
Aluminum - The most common material used in outboard and I/O installations. They are relatively easy to repair and have the lowest initial cost. They also have some flex in them with a small loss in efficiency.
Stainless Steel - These props have higher performance than composite or aluminum and have less flexing, but are more expensive to purchase and repair.
Bronze - Has high performance and good durability. These props are mostly used on inboard installations, such as ski boats, cruisers and yachts. They have a higher cost but are easy to repair.
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